Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Tripp Collins and Clyde Mann (no date)
Page Views: 2,400 total · 22/month
Shared By: TomCaldwell on Sep 6, 2010
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


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Access Issue: All climbers must use existing rappel stations for descent. Details

Description

This is an exciting and exposed roof traverse with a fun roof pull on hero holds. Begin in the V-notch gully or just to the right. Continue up the arete until you are in a corner capped by a small roof, and under the roof is a thin crack. You should be above the large roof, but crunched in the corner below the small roof to start the traverse. Traverse right under the small roof following the major footholds and often hidden hands (crux). It is easy to get suckered into a bad spot if you aren't following the feet.

Continue traversing and placing small gear until the thin crack turns into a jug hand about 10' above the stance. To start the roof pull you should be in a ok stance at a small right facing corner/groove. Plug gear here and fire straight up through the jug hands. Make a few more moves up horizontals trending right slightly. Pull over the top and drop into a hole for a gear belay.

The real crux may be route and hold finding.

Location

As you enter the upper tier's landing, continue straight and up the talus. Follow the talus under the roof and to the obvious v-gully that splits the two walls of the upper tier. Begin on either side of the v-gully. To find the rappel anchors, turn around from the belay and face north. Move to the cliff face in the direction of the viaduct. From here, scramble down and three sets of rap anchors can be seen. The easiest to reach from atop is the ones above Edge of a Dream, which are SS ring anchors. Avoid the old rusty set. A single 60m will get you up and down.

Protection

Single rack TCU's to #3 or #4 camalot with several shoulder slings. A single #3 or #4 is mandatory.

Photos