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Whacky

V4, Boulder, 10 ft (3 m),  Avg: 2.8 from 5 votes
FA: na
Massachusetts > N Shore > Cape Ann > Cavalry Boulder… > 2. Central Sector > Alcove
Access Issue: Covid Guidelines Details

Description

Start on a good left hand edge under the prow with a right hand on a sloper and a high right foot. Work up the arete and top out.

Location

This is the first problem you will see when coming up from the valley towards The Alcove boulders.

Protection

A pad or two, good landing.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Can't see much from this, but just find the boulder and you will see the line.
[Hide Photo] Can't see much from this, but just find the boulder and you will see the line.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Walter
  V6+
[Hide Comment] Derek- I had done a low start on this boulder (left side sit) about 2000-2001, called it "Whacky", and thought it was about V7 or so. I don't believe there were any other ascents prior seeing the amount of cleaning I had done on this as well as other boulders in the area. I do know there were some folks climbing there a little after I had been(Rob and Andy?) as well as some others that were climbing there in the '80s, but as near as I could tell a lot of the stuff there that I did were 1st ascents due to the amount of cleaning.

Would love to know what boulders people are climbing there, and I may have some more pics, video, or info, if interested. I loved this area, because I was always there alone, it's very secluded, and it's just great bouldering!

(edit) I did think it was quite a bit harder than V4, but I do think I started a little different, feet under the roof to the left(?) does that sound right? I put down V6+ for the grade, but I remember thinking it was harder than that at the time. Oct 24, 2010
andyscott
Massachusetts
  V7
[Hide Comment] I thought V7 from the lower sit/crouch start. Mar 17, 2011
erik kapec
prescott, az
[Hide Comment] I did this with a left side-pull and right hand on a sloper. Heel hook with the right foot on almost nothing, and this definitely was all footwork...but am I missing something? I'm totally not a V6 climber.

edit:Met a guy tom nonis, who mention a sit has been done from the right side, off the flake. Started it, and felt the flake move...its definitely ready to pop off. Apr 16, 2013
Tim McGivern
Medford, ma
 
[Hide Comment] Felt like V4 from the stand. Sit seems a lot harder. Jan 27, 2018
[Hide Comment] I didn't see much in the way of options for a low left start. A low right start seems possible, but as Erik mentions, the flake is barely attached. May 10, 2020
Derek Sullivan
Beverly, MA
  V4
[Hide Comment] We always climbed the stand, because we couldn't see much for a sit, as mentioned by others. If there is a good sit that goes, we can put it up as its own line if folks want. I remember the stand being one of the harder 4s around at the time, at least for me. Have to go back out and take a look again. May 10, 2020