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Routes in The Alcove

Glorious V3 6A
Alcove Direct V3+ 6A+
Alcove Problem, The V7 7A+
Alcove Slab V2-3 5+
Alcove Slab Left V0 4
Ghost Writer V5 6C
Great V4+ 6B+
M&M Arete V3 6A
Whacky V4 6B
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Type: Boulder, 10 ft
FA: na
Page Views: 795 total · 9/month
Shared By: Derek Sullivan on Sep 5, 2010
Admins: Joe M., Old Timer

You & This Route

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Start on a good left hand edge under the prow with a right hand on a sloper and a high right foot. Work up the arete and top out.


This is the first problem you will see when coming up from the valley towards The Alcove boulders.


A pad or two, good landing.


erik kapec
prescott, az
erik kapec   prescott, az
I did this with a left side-pull and right hand on a sloper. Heel hook with the right foot on almost nothing, and this definitely was all footwork...but am I missing something? I'm totally not a V6 climber.

edit:Met a guy tom nonis, who mention a sit has been done from the right side, off the flake. Started it, and felt the flake move...its definitely ready to pop off. Apr 16, 2013
andyscott   Massachusetts
I thought V7 from the lower sit/crouch start. Mar 17, 2011
Derek- I had done a low start on this boulder (left side sit) about 2000-2001, called it "Whacky", and thought it was about V7 or so. I don't believe there were any other ascents prior seeing the amount of cleaning I had done on this as well as other boulders in the area. I do know there were some folks climbing there a little after I had been(Rob and Andy?) as well as some others that were climbing there in the '80s, but as near as I could tell a lot of the stuff there that I did were 1st ascents due to the amount of cleaning.

Would love to know what boulders people are climbing there, and I may have some more pics, video, or info, if interested. I loved this area, because I was always there alone, it's very secluded, and it's just great bouldering!

(edit) I did think it was quite a bit harder than V4, but I do think I started a little different, feet under the roof to the left(?) does that sound right? I put down V6+ for the grade, but I remember thinking it was harder than that at the time. Oct 24, 2010