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Routes in Fatty Bolger and Ferret's Folly

Earth Trip T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Fatty Bolger T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Ferret's Folly S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Leading Edge, The S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Moominland S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rumours T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Where's Roxie S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
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Type: Sport, TR, 90 ft
FA: Will Dorling, Elise Hunt - 1996
Page Views: 72 total · 1/month
Shared By: Jon Stein on Sep 5, 2010
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

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Access Issue: Do not park in the residential neighborhood! Park in the designated lot Details
Access Issue: Stop Camping Illegally Details

Description

The crux is at the very top where you have a technical bulge to climb before reaching the anchor. I made it through the climb well until I got to this section and found it really hard. I would change the rating of the climb to an 11d due to the bulge move. I have yet to climb this through clean and don't plan on leading it any time soon!

Location

This route is found off of Channel road just below Ferret's Folly crag. You find the start by looking just right of Fatty Bolger 11a to the obvious line of bolts going up the arete. The initial wall on the right of the arete has no climbing routes as another indication that your there. You can walk off this climb or be lowered back down.

Protection

6 bolts protect the entire route...there could be a few more if you ask me. Anchor is bolts at the top.

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Jon Stein
North Vancouver, BC
  5.11a
Jon Stein   North Vancouver, BC
  5.11a
I really enjoyed this as a TR. I am curious to see what others think about the grade. I feel it should be rated 11d with the hard bulge crux you have to climb over at the top to reach the anchor. Let me know your thoughts. Worthwhile climb if you love slab as much as me. Sep 5, 2010

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