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A Quarter and a Half

5.10, Trad, 80 ft (24 m),  Avg: 2.2 from 6 votes
FA: Michelle Locatelli, Gary Fike
Nevada > Southern Nevada > Rainbow Canyon > 2. The ArĂȘtes (a.k.a.…
Warning Access Issue: Be respectful of, and do not climb on or around, rock art here and everywhere DetailsDrop down

Description

Hard, bouldery moves lead to tricky finger locks. Gear is tricky to place, especially at the beginning. This route is given 5.8 in the book, so I gave it that grade as well. I felt that this thing was 10/10+.

Location

This climb is toward the left hand side of the cliff. Locate the curving crack that starts about halfway up the wall, and then look right for a right leaning finger sized crack that joins up with a wide corner. Start on a ledge that is about 6 feet off the ground.

Protection

double set of cams to #2 camalot, a #4 camalot could be used as well, but is not needed. Small wires are helpful.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Beta Photo
[Hide Photo] Beta Photo
Quarter and a Half
[Hide Photo] Quarter and a Half
Visible anchors
[Hide Photo] Visible anchors

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

sqwirll
Las Vegas
  5.10+
[Hide Comment] Could probably use a new anchor at some point. Sep 6, 2010
Xavier Wasiak
Las Vegas, NV
  5.10
[Hide Comment] Good nuts and thin gear. Not an 8. Jul 8, 2012
[Hide Comment] Pretty sure this is the route for which I couldn't find the anchors. Must have blinked too long and climbed right past them, eventually topping out and walking off. Just a heads up, as I wouldn't want that crappy experience to happen to others, mostly for the loose death rock above. Can anyone confirm the anchors are actually there somewhere? My memory also tells me this was a 5.10, 2 star. Mar 26, 2020
Darren S
Minneapolis, MN
  5.10
[Hide Comment] Kurt - I have no recollection of where the anchors are on this route.

But I did just update the rating from 5.8 to 5.10 now that 3 people other than me agree. Mar 26, 2020