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Routes in Northwest Slabs

Bolted Arete T,S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Cows are People Too T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Cows in Space T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Doctor Cow S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Paint it Sad T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ribeye Flake T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sky Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Squid Skid T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Stiffler's Mom T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Turbo Pup T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Yellow Dihedral T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 200 ft
FA: Craig Luebben, Sarah Spalding, Ralph Walter, Schmetterer
Page Views: 1,286 total, 15/month
Shared By: Kevin Landolt on Sep 4, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

What a fun route! Scramble up the sweet, right-facing corner (5.6) to the "Ribeye Flake" belay. Climb up right on moderate ground to an obvious seam - continue up on beautiful, water-polished rock. Clip the route's lone bolt (I'm not sure if this bolt was added after the FA by the infamous "Greyrock Retrobolter", or if it was placed by the FA Team - certainly possible considering where the bolt is located and the general look of it - when compared to the shiny new bolts that abound on the surrounding slabs). Climb softly through the route's crux - excellent slab moves on perfect stone. Follow the obvious, arching crack to about mid-way, place a big cam and then savor the "exciting exit moves" on the slab above. Sweet!!!

Rap from the tree anchor on Cow Pie Ledge to the ground with 2 60m ropes, or make a single 60m rap to an easy downclimb.

This route is mislabled as route #40 in the NC3 guide. It is actually the route labeled #39. There is also a lone bolt on the route not described in that book - to be sure the NC3 guide is an invaluable resource for the Greyrock climber - but on the NW Slab topo many route #s do not match their descriptions.

Location

Ribeye Flake area, NW Slabs.

Protection

A few cams to 4 inches, stoppers. There's one bolt on the route.

Photos

Kevin Landolt
Fort Collins, Wyoming
 
Kevin Landolt   Fort Collins, Wyoming
 
I'm pretty sure the lone bolt was placed by the FA team - the R rating was describing the 15+ feet of 5.9 slab above the Ribeye Flake - I gave this route a PG-13 rating, because the 5.9 climbing is secure (positive holds) and you have a good #4 C4 placement below - don't fall here, though - as the slab below could reek havoc on your ankles. Excellent climb - so far, my top three favorites for the NW Slabs include Cows in Space (10b R), Cows are People Too (this route), and Turbo Pup (10b PG-13). Get after it, woo hoo!!! What a cool place to spend an afternoon cragging. Oct 13, 2010