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Routes in Pigeon Peak

East Face Pigeon Porcupine Quill T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b A1-
North Face Variation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Aid, Alpine, 1000 ft, 7 pitches, Grade IV
FA: John Catto, Ken Sauls, Max Kendall
Page Views: 373 total · 4/month
Shared By: Max Kendall on Sep 4, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Start in the Matous dihedral, work left into a steep, open book with thin fingers. Directissma to summit. Steep dihedral is 2-3 pitches. Easy upper pitches to the summit.


Hike up to the East face from Ruby Lake. Find the obvious, large dihedral and the steep, open book buttress to the left. Start in dihedral and move left where it gets steep.


Small pro. A fixed piton at crux. No anchors were left.

Descend the standard route off the summit North and circle down around the west basin around to the south through a notch and back to the bottom of the east face.



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