Type: Trad, 165 ft
FA: JSt, Eric Murdock
Page Views: 144 total · 1/month
Shared By: Jimbo on Sep 3, 2010
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Potentially unavailable to climbing February through July if raptors are breeding here. Details


Original attempt was denied due to hail, sleet and rain, in August!
It was lead ground up on both occasions.


On the West side of Raven A.
Climbs the center of the buttress through two roofs between Ichabod Crane and Rumple Stiltkin. Joins Rumple Stiltkin above the plated face near the top. We put a new bolt next to one of the very old and rusty 1/4 inchers. We left all three of the old bolts so people can appreciate the way they did it back in the day.
The route is much steeper than it looks.
2nd roof is awesome fun climbing while the 1st is thought provoking.
Rappel from 2 bolt anchor into the gully between Raven A and Murray Wall. You can rappel to the very bottom of the gully and avoid the short easy down climb if you have a 70 meter rope.


Gear to 2.5 inches, a few long slings and 3 bolts just where you really want them.


Geir www.ToofastTopos.com
Tucson, AZ
  5.10 PG13
Geir www.ToofastTopos.com   Tucson, AZ
  5.10 PG13
definitely a bold ground up ascent with its tricky gear. congrats jim on your efforts, particularly in the rain!

step back a way before doing this route and take note of the location of the two bolts visible from the ground, this will help you zero in on the route. after the second bolt pull the roof and trend a bit left as you climb up to locate the last bolt on the climb. a few relic bolts have been left in place near this final bolt, they are really neat to check out.

expect some solid 5.10 climbing with a few challenging placements on this one. the moves over the second roof are really fun! Sep 19, 2010
Casa do Cacete
Christian   Casa do Cacete
Not that leading it is any safer, but even following this route could turn problematic quickly. You have to pull the first roof on the far right to keep it in the grade, but the rope will be pulling you to the far left. The amount of slack you'll have to ask for = the possibility of a 15 foot pendulum into the slab below. Any placements directly above the right side of the roof are just not there or would create horrible rope drag for the leader.

On the far right, you'll have to constantly stop to flick the rope over the horns it'll catch on as you're pulling the roof, which will make it feel a lot harder than 5.10.

Jul 6, 2017