Type: Trad, 165 ft
FA: JSt, Eric Murdock
Page Views: 197 total · 2/month
Shared By: Jimbo on Sep 3, 2010
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Potentially unavailable to climbing February through July if raptors are breeding here. Details

Description

Original attempt was denied due to hail, sleet and rain, in August!
It was lead ground up on both occasions.

Location

On the West side of Raven A.
Climbs the center of the buttress through two roofs between Ichabod Crane and Rumple Stiltkin. Joins Rumple Stiltkin above the plated face near the top. We put a new bolt next to one of the very old and rusty 1/4 inchers. We left all three of the old bolts so people can appreciate the way they did it back in the day.
The route is much steeper than it looks.
2nd roof is awesome fun climbing while the 1st is thought provoking.
Rappel from 2 bolt anchor into the gully between Raven A and Murray Wall. You can rappel to the very bottom of the gully and avoid the short easy down climb if you have a 70 meter rope.

Protection

Gear to 2.5 inches, a few long slings and 3 bolts just where you really want them.

Photos