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Routes in Moon Hill

?Name (Proud Control) S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Apollo S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Artemis S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dark Side of the Moon S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Eclipse S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Emission Control (first pitch) S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Finger King S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Heavenly Body S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Luna Nascente P1 S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Luna Nascente P2 S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Moon Walker S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Moonstruck S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
New Moon (left of pinnacle) S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
New Moon (right of pinnacle) S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Over the Moon S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Proud Sky S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Todd Skinner, Sam Lightner, Mike Tupper - 1990
Page Views: 2,944 total, 33/month
Shared By: Fred Vanden Bergh on Sep 3, 2010
Admins: Dan Flynn, Nate Ball

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Description

Another amazing Moon Hill route.

This route climbs up a delicate start to continuous, steep overhanging tufa stalagtites. There's a spectacular no hands rest, stradling a large tufa 1/2 way through the overhang, a welcome rest for the crux to come. (We were told the Chinese name for this route is 'Flying Horse,' named for this rest stradling the high tufa.) Continue from the rest up through slightly harder terrain, pull the lip, and finally through the crux at the last bolt where the holds get a bit smaller and the desperation increases. I've heard that many skip the final bolt before the anchor -- I did as well. The fall would be long, but totally safe. The route really has no devious, tricky, or tiny holds, its mostly an enduro fest: just keep climbing!

Its hard to imagine a better sport route with better position than this.

Location

This climbs up the arch's steep, curving right side. Walk down, left, from the main climbing face (located on the back side of the arch as you approach it) to a line of bolts up a rounded arete, 2 routes left of Proud Sky. Follow the bolts up through the obvious stalagtites up the no hands rest atop the curving tufa. Don't go too far left after this rest, this leads to Lunar Tick, a 13b that sees relatively little traffic and some of the bolts look suspect. Instead, the first few moves off the 'Flying Horse' head just slightly *right* before cutting back left up to the lip.

A 70 meter rope is likely required to lower off -- haven't tried it with a 60.

Protection

14 bolts to a 2 bolt chain anchor. 70m rope.

Photos

LeeAB Brinckerhoff
ABQ, NM
  5.12c
LeeAB Brinckerhoff   ABQ, NM  
  5.12c
As of July 5th 2011 there was a wasp nest being built in the threader pocket just above the no hands rest on the stalactite. Jul 5, 2011