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Routes in Great Expectations Area (FTGU Left Side)

Big Love T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Crystal Ether T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Derezzed T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Exacerbation S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Great Expectations T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Marc's Mixup T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Men Giving Birth T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a R
Midget Love S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Murder in the Dark S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Pin Setter T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Raoul Silva S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rapidfire T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Skyfall S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Tattle Tales S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Twilight Sparkle T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Vertebrae S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Where in The World Is Carmen Pellegrino? S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wisecrack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, Sport, 45 ft
FA: Marc-Andre leclerc
Page Views: 78 total · 1/month
Shared By: Marco on Sep 3, 2010
Admins: Kate Lynn

You & This Route


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Description

Start by climbing through the small roof and mantle the bloc. This section is a V4ish problem, also height dependant. Place some gear in the crack before heading up to the bolt. The crux is the left to right traverse across the face to the next crack. You will need to place pro in this crack due to the next bolt having been removed. Continue heading right on good edges to the arete and finish up with Exacerbation.

There are a few open projects on this wall-

Project 1: Start as for Marc's Mixup but reach up to a high pocket with the left to pull yourself up onto the bloc. Clip the bolt to the right before heading up and right through the crux to gain the crack. Finish up with the Exacerbation arete. You may want to stick clip the first bolt. Blowing out of the pocket when pulling up will lead to a serious fall.

Project 2: Start as for Marc's Mixup and finish up and left using the twin cracks. Thin and technical.

Project 3: Start in the cave on the two obvious pockets.Work your way onto the bloc and link any of the routes. A V10ish or harder start.

Project 4: Start as for Marc's Mixup but skip the bloc and go directly over the roof to a small edge, match, and go for the sloping inset. Finish as for project 1.

Location

See topo

Protection

One bolt in the middle of face and two on Exacerbation. 2-3 smallish cams for the cracks.

Photos

MikeW  
I'm still laying claim to the left most project in this picture if it hasn't been done. I rescrubbed it last year and this year but it's been weaping ever since last fall. Jun 1, 2011