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Artemis

5.11a, Sport, 80 ft (24 m),  Avg: 3.3 from 12 votes
FA: Lua Kung Hing, Wong Yee Ping, 1994
International > Asia > China > Guangxi Province > YangShuo > Moon Hill

Description

This is one of several classic lines at Moon Hill (which has more than its fair share of great routes). Like many of its close relatives to its right, the main challenge with Artemis is just climbing through the jugs and through the burn. It does pitch back to a bit more overhanging near the top, so that probably qualifies as the crux considering all of the overhanging jugs you've already had to climb through.

This is a great route with great stone. Its also easy to top rope, and a very safe lead -- so a good route for someone working on this grade. For those aiming at harder lines, this is probably the most popular "warm up" at Moon Hill.

Location

On the main wall of Moon Hill ( through the arch after you approach, walk up the hill just a touch to an obvious couple of trails that cut left and through some bushed to the back side of the arch ). Its on the right side, 3 routes left of Luna Nascente and 1 route right of Apollo. Its 2 routes to the left of the obvious flowstone stalagtite blob, near the detached pinnacle.

Protection

8-9 bolts + 2 bolt chain anchor at the top

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

LeeAB Brinckerhoff
Austin, TX
  5.11a
[Hide Comment] As of July 5th 2011, there was a good sized loose block at the little roof that is passed on the right end about half way up.

Also a wasp nest just being built slightly above the roof in a large underclinging pocket. Jul 5, 2011
[Hide Comment] The loose block has been there for at least a year+; it had a conspicuous 'X' on it last season. Not sure if that means its more solid than it appears, but considering the amount of traffic this route sees it at least suggests its not on the brink of coming out completely. Still, as it is relatively easy to reach past it, its obviously best to avoid it. Jul 8, 2011