Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Andy Wasper - 1993
Page Views: 346 total · 3/month
Shared By: Fred Vanden Bergh on Sep 2, 2010
Admins: Dan Flynn, Nate Ball

You & This Route


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Description

If you're ok with the spicy first couple of bolts, pitch one (5.10b) serves as a good warm up for Moonhill's many harder lines, and certainly sees far more traffic than pitch two (11c/d).

P1: Though there is a definite crux in the first half, the main challenge is holding on through the pump. Continuously steep, at a tad more the vertical, this route is feels solid at the grade. Great climbing.

P2: I've never seen anyone on this, but the line is obvious and continues straight up the wall from the first anchors.

Location

This route is on the main climbing face of Moon Hill, through the arch on the back side from which you approach. Its on the right side of the face, just before slipping behind the detached pinnacle to get to the Moonstruck area. It starts just right of the flowstone blob, and has a spicy first bolt. This is shown incorrectly in the 2008 (8th) edition of the guidebook, which shows the route going right up the middle of the flowstone. (There actually is another route here, though its not in the guide. It just left of Luna Nascente and goes at 11d/12a; you can clip the 1st bolt of this route if you like -- though the start is harder). Easy to top rope.

Protection

8 bolts, and fixed 2 bolt chain anchors with large stainless rap rings at the top.

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