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Routes in l. Hawk's Nest

Crack Magic T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Hawk's Neck T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Hawk's Nest (P1) T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Hawk's Nest (P2 left) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Hawk's Nest (P2 middle) T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Hawk's Nest (P2 right) T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Welcome to Stover S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Trad, TR, 45 ft
FA: George Austin and Roland Machold, 1954
Page Views: 2,237 total, 25/month
Shared By: Justin Johnsen on Sep 2, 2010
Admins: Justin Johnsen, Kyle Stapp

You & This Route


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Description

The first pitch of Hawk's Nest is a fun, quality climb for its grade and location. Climb up a dihedral to a ceiling, and traverse left a short distance to its end. From there, follow a crack straight up, and traverse left along a ledge to a bolted belay directly over Hawk's Neck (if you don't see it at first, look on the left/far side of a rock protrusion - then there's no missing it).

"The opening moves often have wet feet. These can be bypassed and protected, but it ups the ante a little bit. After the seep, it's the best gear and best climb of it's grade at Stover." [-Larry S]

Three variations for the section pitch wait above.

Both pitches can also be combined into one pitch with a 60 m rope.

Location

Hawk's Nest starts right off the belay trail, at a vertical open book to the right of Welcome to Stover/Hawk's Neck, and left of Marty Broke It. The adventurous can get off the first pitch with a class 4 traverse to the west and downclimb of a dirty gully; otherwise, rappel off.

Protection

The first pitch is easy to protect, the second is not. A toprope anchor set from the bolts on top of the first pitch can produce a swing, remedy this with a cam or two to extend the rope to the right.

Photos

Larry S
Easton, Pennsylvania
Larry S   Easton, Pennsylvania
The opening moves often have wet feet. These can be bypassed and protected, but it ups the ante a little bit. After the seep, it's the best gear and best climb of it's grade at stover. (just pitch 1) Sep 1, 2011