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Routes in East Fork Valley

Ambush Plaisir T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Arsenault-Bouchard T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
East Chimney/South Face T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Gash Peak - Golden Dihedral T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Great Grey Book T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
I Think Therefore I Ambush T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
M Buttress T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Midsummer Dome, South Face Center T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Midsummer's Dome SSW T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
No Picnic for Old Men T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
North Face of Ambush Peak T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Raid Peak-South Buttress,East Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Runnel Out T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a C1 R
Son Of Raid T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Southwest Face Midsummer's Dome T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, Alpine, 500 ft, 5 pitches, Grade II
FA: Dick DuMais & Dick Williams, 1971
Page Views: 3,322 total, 37/month
Shared By: Tim Wolfe on Aug 31, 2010
Admins: Mike Snyder

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6 Opinions

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Description

This route is so good it needs to be on this web site. It was put up in the 1970's and graded 5.9 - this will give you an idea of what has occurred in terms of grade creep over the years- it is truly stout for the grade.

Approach - in the center of the South Face of Midsummer dome is a left facing dihedral system to the right of large black water streaks. A diagonal ramp leads up towards the first pitch which is at the top of this ramp.
Approach Pitch - 4th class - I suggest you belay the upper portion of the ramp as it is now grass choked and exposed.
Pitch 1 5.8- Just left of a dirty overhanging corner two cracks converge in a point about 10-12 feet up. the right crack is fat/knee locks, the left is a seam with grass in it. Climb this until you can get gear in the top right of the overhanger corner then proceed up and then traverse right to a ledge/belay.
Optional pitch 1 - 5.9 stout: To the left of the first pitch is a stunning left facing corner that flares at the top - climb this then traverse across flakes to the belay.
Pitch 2 - 5.9 stout: Pick a path essentially straight up from the belay past the least dirty sections to then climb a well featured face, eventually traversing left to a shallow, steep right facing flake. Climb this strenuous lieback flake then step right to a belay ledge.
Pitch 3 - 5.6: Climb up and left over flakes/small ledges until you eventually intersect the main left facing dihedrals.
Pitch 4 - 5.9 stout: Climb up through an offwidth and an overhanging section to the base of a clean corner. Climb it.
Pitch 5 - climb up easy terrain to a tree covered ledge top belay. Exit left and up.

Location

Approach - in the center of the South Face of Midsummer dome is a left facing dihedral system to the right of large black water streaks. A diagonal ramp leads up towards the first pitch which is at the top of this ramp.

Protection

Standard alpine rack (camming units very useful).

Photos

Frost
  5.10+
Frost  
  5.10+
A translation of "stout", 5.9++, and 5.9+++ (in my opinion)...

P1: 5.8
P1 (variation): 5.11- (one of the best pitches in the winds)

P2: 5.10+

P3: 5.8 (10' section before hitting major dihedral, otherwise low 5th class)

P4: 5.9+ when dry... A1 when wet:)

P5: 5.7 out to giant tree ledge/bivy for 50+

All well-protected. A brilliant route. Aug 25, 2016