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Routes in East Fork Valley

Ambush Plaisir T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Arsenault-Bouchard T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
East Chimney/South Face T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Gash Peak - Golden Dihedral T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Great Grey Book T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
I Think Therefore I Ambush T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
M Buttress T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Midsummer Dome, South Face Center T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Midsummer's Dome SSW T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
No Picnic for Old Men T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
North Face of Ambush Peak T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Raid Peak-South Buttress,East Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Runnel Out T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a C1 R
Son Of Raid T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Southwest Face Midsummer's Dome T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, Aid, Alpine, 1500 ft, 6 pitches, Grade III
FA: Chris Abbott and Tim Wolfe, Sept 1998
Page Views: 522 total, 6/month
Shared By: Tim Wolfe on Aug 31, 2010
Admins: Mike Snyder

You & This Route


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Description

This route required significant skill with gear placement due to the fact that most of the ‘cracks” are actually water runnels that bottom out (hence the route name). Despite its “short” length it seemed very committing. There are one or two moves on pitch 5 that we pulled on gear - dirty steep crack - probably 5.10 if cleaned out. This route is either 1 or 2 stars - depends on how much you like to be scared.


Approach: Follow the East Chimney route about 1000 feet through the 3rd and 4th class sections to the crux steep chimney (or the steep face immediately to the chimneys right). Climb this East Chimney crux to the section that flattens out and begins to traverse to the left. At the top of this steep section there is a roof directly above with a double crack that splits the left end of it. This is the first pitch of the South East Buttress "Runnel Out" Route.

Pitch 1: 5.9 Climb right to a flake and up to the left side of the roof Climb up the double cracks (increasingly difficult) until they end, then face climb a short distance up and slightly left to a small ledge to belay.
Pitch 2: 5.10a R Link disconnected water runnels and face sections to an open book that ends at a small roof and a white dike. This is a scary lead.
Pitch 3: 5.8 Traverse left on the white dike past a small left facing corner to a right facing corner topped with a small roof. Climb up this, through the roof and up the crack until it widens.
Pitch 4: 5.9+ Climb the widening crack/chimney until it eases up, then up to an overhang with a small stance.
Pitch 5: 5.9 Al Climb left from the stance to a flake, pull up the flake and left into a thin crack through a small bulge. This bulge was choked with grass and dirt, which required several Al moves but will probably go free at 5.10 now that it is cleaned out. Belay in the large red corner above (probably can connect pitches 5 and 6).
Pitch 6: 5.9+ Climb the large red dihedral to the roof that caps it. Climb out the left leaning crack through the roof and belay in an alcove.
Pitch 7: 5.7 Climb out the left leaning crack and broken face for about 120 feet to a sloping ledge. At this point the first ascent team rappelled down to an obvious escape ledge near the top of the east chimney route and climbed out the gully due to the lateness of the day. Many nice looking corners and cracks exist directly above this sloping ledge.

Location

Approach: Follow the East Chimney route about 1000 feet through the 3rd and 4th class sections to the crux steep chimney (or the steep face immediately to the chimneys right). Climb this East Chimney crux to the section that flattens out and begins to traverse to the left. At the top of this steep section there is a roof directly above with a double crack that splits the left end of it. This is the first pitch of the Runnel Out.

Protection

We had a standard rack of cams, wires and micronuts. I would think some tricams and TCU type gear might be useful.

Photos

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