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Great Grey Book

5.9, Trad, Alpine, 900 ft (273 m), 5 pitches, Grade III,  Avg: 2.8 from 6 votes
FA: Tim Wolfe and Chris Abbott, Sept 1998
Wyoming > Wind River Range > E Fork Valley > Ambush Peak

Description

After multiple forays up this formation looking for a free route (not willing to drill or hammer the quite difficult upper portion of the wall) we finally found a complete route on this wall. The route is very fun - not too hard, not too long, super easy to descend with consistently good climbing and little loose rock (for the mountains). Our second favorite route we ever put up in the Winds over the last 15 years.

Approach: Walk to the base of the "Apostle" and ascend the right leaning descent gully about 150 feet until just below a large roof with the obvious grey rock to its left. Below this is a chimney that marks the first pitch.

Pitch 1: 5.7 or 5.8 Climb flakes up to the chimney and then climb the chimney —(it is much easier to lie-back this chimney). At the top of the chimney carefully climb up and right into the grey corner. 40 m
Pitch 2: 5.8 Climb the grey dihedral as far as you can. A spectacular pitch. 70 m
Pitch 3: 5.8/4th: Climb the rest of the grey dihedral, then fourth class it up and right to the far side of a grassy ledge below many discontinuous flakes. 40 m
Pitch 4: 5.9 Climb the flakes and discontinuous cracks searching for the least difficult way through the several roofs above. Stretch the rope all the way to some small ledges. A spectacular pitch of finger cracks, lie-backs and small roofs. 70 m
Pitch 5: 5.7 Connect flakes, cracks and small roofs directly above to the summit. Multiple possibilities exist. 70 m

If using a 60 m rope or not interested in pushing the full extent of the rope - there are plenty of options for other belays to make this a 6 or 7 pitch route.

Location

See the photos and the topo. Hike up the East Fork Valley to the area below the formation, climb the talus up to the base then ascend the gully to the right for about 150 feet until below a large roof with grey rock and an obvious open book corner to its left. The route starts in a chimney left and below this roof to access the open book crack. Descent is just to the north down the obvious gully right back to the start.

Protection

Standard alpine rack - nothing special

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Looking down the excellent second pitch from the midpoint belay ledge in the open book corner.
[Hide Photo] Looking down the excellent second pitch from the midpoint belay ledge in the open book corner.
Photo of the "Apostle" formation with location of the Great Grey book route and the descent gully
[Hide Photo] Photo of the "Apostle" formation with location of the Great Grey book route and the descent gully
Overview of the route and formation locations in the upper East Fork Valley
[Hide Photo] Overview of the route and formation locations in the upper East Fork Valley
Topo guide of the route
[Hide Photo] Topo guide of the route

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Trevor McDonald
Milan, IT -> Minneapolis, S…
[Hide Comment] Was forced to bail after a fall. Left a decent amount of gear at/above the roof on P1. Give me a text if you find it and I'll make it worth your while to send it to me. 6512316714 Aug 14, 2018
Andy Renz
Denver. Colorado
  5.10a R
[Hide Comment] I'm the dude who whipped (read Trevor's post below please!) The pro is pretty sparse in several through P1 and just above. I whipped because a crimp, not rattly, ripped off the wall in an unprotectable area. It looked and felt totally fine until put under my full weight. Be cautious if planning to send this. I fell maybe 50 feet above where they say to set up belay #1. Don't blast through that belay, just after the roof, to minimize the danger through the section above. Aug 27, 2018