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Routes in Ambush Peak
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Ambush Plaisir T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Arsenault-Bouchard T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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East Chimney/South Face T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Gash Peak - Golden Dihedral T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Great Grey Book T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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I Think Therefore I Ambush T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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M Buttress T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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No Picnic for Old Men T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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North Face of Ambush Peak T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Raid Peak-South Buttress,East Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Runnel Out T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a C1 R |
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Son Of Raid T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 900 ft (273 m), 5 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | Tim Wolfe and Chris Abbott, Sept 1998 |
| Page Views: | 2,242 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | Tim Wolfe on Aug 31, 2010 |
| Admins: | Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson |
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Description
After multiple forays up this formation looking for a free route (not willing to drill or hammer the quite difficult upper portion of the wall) we finally found a complete route on this wall. The route is very fun - not too hard, not too long, super easy to descend with consistently good climbing and little loose rock (for the mountains). Our second favorite route we ever put up in the Winds over the last 15 years.
Approach: Walk to the base of the "Apostle" and ascend the right leaning descent gully about 150 feet until just below a large roof with the obvious grey rock to its left. Below this is a chimney that marks the first pitch.
Pitch 1: 5.7 or 5.8 Climb flakes up to the chimney and then climb the chimney (it is much easier to lie-back this chimney). At the top of the chimney carefully climb up and right into the grey corner. 40 m
Pitch 2: 5.8 Climb the grey dihedral as far as you can. A spectacular pitch. 70 m
Pitch 3: 5.8/4th: Climb the rest of the grey dihedral, then fourth class it up and right to the far side of a grassy ledge below many discontinuous flakes. 40 m
Pitch 4: 5.9 Climb the flakes and discontinuous cracks searching for the least difficult way through the several roofs above. Stretch the rope all the way to some small ledges. A spectacular pitch of finger cracks, lie-backs and small roofs. 70 m
Pitch 5: 5.7 Connect flakes, cracks and small roofs directly above to the summit. Multiple possibilities exist. 70 m
If using a 60 m rope or not interested in pushing the full extent of the rope - there are plenty of options for other belays to make this a 6 or 7 pitch route.
Approach: Walk to the base of the "Apostle" and ascend the right leaning descent gully about 150 feet until just below a large roof with the obvious grey rock to its left. Below this is a chimney that marks the first pitch.
Pitch 1: 5.7 or 5.8 Climb flakes up to the chimney and then climb the chimney (it is much easier to lie-back this chimney). At the top of the chimney carefully climb up and right into the grey corner. 40 m
Pitch 2: 5.8 Climb the grey dihedral as far as you can. A spectacular pitch. 70 m
Pitch 3: 5.8/4th: Climb the rest of the grey dihedral, then fourth class it up and right to the far side of a grassy ledge below many discontinuous flakes. 40 m
Pitch 4: 5.9 Climb the flakes and discontinuous cracks searching for the least difficult way through the several roofs above. Stretch the rope all the way to some small ledges. A spectacular pitch of finger cracks, lie-backs and small roofs. 70 m
Pitch 5: 5.7 Connect flakes, cracks and small roofs directly above to the summit. Multiple possibilities exist. 70 m
If using a 60 m rope or not interested in pushing the full extent of the rope - there are plenty of options for other belays to make this a 6 or 7 pitch route.
Location
See the photos and the topo. Hike up the East Fork Valley to the area below the formation, climb the talus up to the base then ascend the gully to the right for about 150 feet until below a large roof with grey rock and an obvious open book corner to its left. The route starts in a chimney left and below this roof to access the open book crack. Descent is just to the north down the obvious gully right back to the start.
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