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Routes in Head Wall

All Things Considered S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
China Crisis S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Coughing up Fleming S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dreams of White Horsts S,TR 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Feng Shui S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Great White Shark, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Hubba Bubba S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Little Creatures T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Masterpiece Theatre S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Reaches From Hell S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Sangre Verde S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Skinhead Grin S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Skinhead Sin S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
So Freakin' Fun S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Stellar Idea S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Take me to the River T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tworgasaminimum T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Verde Bunyan S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Verde Suave S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Type: Sport, TR, 40 ft
FA: Eric and Kyle Horst 1987
Page Views: 1,247 total · 13/month
Shared By: matt matera on Aug 31, 2010
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Writing in chalk Details

Description

40 feet off-width crack to the right of Hubba Bubba.

Protection

4 bolts. Can also use a number 4 C4 black dimaond camalot if you want extra protection.

Photos

Ed Wade
Hermann, MO
 
Ed Wade   Hermann, MO
 
Why is there bolts on this climb? I remember there being a pin about halfway up and not having any trouble with cam placements. What's going on here. Cracks should not have bolts. If you can't climb offwidths then climb something else. Apr 18, 2015
BrianWS  
Many routes at Bubba City are retrobolted gear lines, per the original FA's decision. Accessibility and convenience were most likely the rationale.

What was done was done years ago and is certainly not the norm at the rest of the gorge. Since it isn't part of a new trend in the area and was done so long ago, it isn't really worth making a fuss over in my opinion. Apr 19, 2015
Jake Jones
Richmond, VA
Jake Jones   Richmond, VA  
While I agree with you Ed, this isn't the only place that this has occurred. I don't know how long the bolts have been there, or if the FA put them there. Other routes that are bolted cracks and can probably be protected with gear are Disturbance at Beauty, Beetle Byway at Meadow, and the list goes on. There are also routes that go the other way. Gear-protected but thin, requiring tiny gear and definitely R rated- the addition of bolts would be justified (with regard to safety), yet they remain boltless. Colorblind at Endless comes to mind. And still others that use a mixture. I think this one seems so egregious because it's sort of in your face with the solid crack all the way up, and because you remember it without bolts. May 12, 2015
Didn't know about this one until I walked past it. Super fun. Look for the no hands knee-lock rest! Nov 29, 2015

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