Type: Sport, TR, 40 ft
FA: Eric and Kyle Horst 1987
Page Views: 1,274 total · 13/month
Shared By: matt matera on Aug 31, 2010
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Writing in chalk Details


40 feet off-width crack to the right of Hubba Bubba.


4 bolts. Can also use a number 4 C4 black dimaond camalot if you want extra protection.


Ed Wade
Hermann, MO
Ed Wade   Hermann, MO
Why is there bolts on this climb? I remember there being a pin about halfway up and not having any trouble with cam placements. What's going on here. Cracks should not have bolts. If you can't climb offwidths then climb something else. Apr 18, 2015
Many routes at Bubba City are retrobolted gear lines, per the original FA's decision. Accessibility and convenience were most likely the rationale.

What was done was done years ago and is certainly not the norm at the rest of the gorge. Since it isn't part of a new trend in the area and was done so long ago, it isn't really worth making a fuss over in my opinion. Apr 19, 2015
Jake Jones
Richmond, VA
Jake Jones   Richmond, VA  
While I agree with you Ed, this isn't the only place that this has occurred. I don't know how long the bolts have been there, or if the FA put them there. Other routes that are bolted cracks and can probably be protected with gear are Disturbance at Beauty, Beetle Byway at Meadow, and the list goes on. There are also routes that go the other way. Gear-protected but thin, requiring tiny gear and definitely R rated- the addition of bolts would be justified (with regard to safety), yet they remain boltless. Colorblind at Endless comes to mind. And still others that use a mixture. I think this one seems so egregious because it's sort of in your face with the solid crack all the way up, and because you remember it without bolts. May 12, 2015
Didn't know about this one until I walked past it. Super fun. Look for the no hands knee-lock rest! Nov 29, 2015