Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

Little Gem Diner

5.6, Trad, TR, 110 ft (33 m),  Avg: 2.7 from 20 votes
FA: June 1987, Jim Vermeulen, Bill Morris
New York > Adirondacks > G: Indian Lake… > Shanty Cliff > Main Cliff

Description

Start at left leaning crack. Work up the crack about 20 feet to a good stance, then straight up to a bulge with 2 cracks running through it. Use the left crack to pull over the bulge (crux), then climb straight up to the anchors (above a large ledge a few feet from the top).

Location

150 feet to the left of the third class ramp, about halfway up the eroded dirt slope. Easiest to follow the main path past the eroded slope, then take second path (right) up the the start of this route. The path below Soweto and Hard Times is in much better condition.

Protection

Bolts at top for anchor. Can walkoff, eventually exiting using the third class ramp.

Can be top roped

Access to the bolts on top is easy. If you top rope, please build an anchor with webbing - do not top rope through the bolted anchor!

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

This is the route you take when starting from the 'belay terrace'.
[Hide Photo] This is the route you take when starting from the 'belay terrace'.
Above Little Gem Diner / Blue Toes / Vernal Imperatives
[Hide Photo] Above Little Gem Diner / Blue Toes / Vernal Imperatives
Little Gem Diner Line
[Hide Photo] Little Gem Diner Line
Jerry on lead.
[Hide Photo] Jerry on lead.
Just below the chains.
[Hide Photo] Just below the chains.
getting lowered after leading Little Gem Diner
[Hide Photo] getting lowered after leading Little Gem Diner

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Gunkiemike
[Hide Comment] Per the guidebook, and what I saw there, you tackle the crux bulge via the LEFT of the pair of cracks. Oct 29, 2012
Kevin Heckeler
Las Vegas, NV
  5.6
[Hide Comment] Thanks Mike. :) Apr 2, 2013
Andrew Alexander
Palo Alto, CA
[Hide Comment] There's a nice new belay ledge on the bottom of this route as of today, built by a group from Cornell. Sep 24, 2017
Scott H
Southern ADK
  5.6
[Hide Comment] I mistakenly took the right crack through the crux bulge, and it felt much harder than 5.6 Hopefully others can take note and learn from my mistake. May 27, 2019
Scott H
Southern ADK
  5.6
[Hide Comment] The belay terrace has eroded and is essentially gone. It's amazing to watch the erosion that happens each year at Shanty. Apr 20, 2021