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Routes in El Dorado

Black Gold S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Brown Smoothies TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Ghost Upstairs, The TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Kindergeist T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Nuggets S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Olas Negras S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Poltergeist TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Snooze T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Type: TR
FA: Tim Medina, 1990
Page Views: 669 total, 8/month
Shared By: J Rees on Aug 26, 2010 with updates
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

On south side of formation, right under the anchors. This route would have rated higher if it wasn't for the poison oak all over my face afterward. Watch your rope!

Update 2017: There is no poison oak at the base of the climb. There are a few instances of poison oak on the approach trail and the trail that runs (climber's right) up to the top of the El Dorado formation, but it is avoidable if you cautiously look for it.

Protection

The route is top-ropeable from a new anchor on top of the formation (installed summer 2015) that has chains and rings, but requires very long slings (≈12' each) or a static line (≈30' long) to reach over the lip. The climb now has 5 lead bolts and requires topping-out the formation to lower or walk off. Bolts are Fixe Triplex (75 mm length). The old anchor is still intact but is very rusty and not recommended.
Aaron Formella
Atascadero, CA
  5.11c
Aaron Formella   Atascadero, CA
  5.11c
Hi Jack,

Congratulations on the redpoint! That could be the first redpoint this route has seen.

I'm sorry to hear you had a near miss with the bolt hanger on Brown Smoothies. I've noticed the lowest bolt hanger on Olas Negras and the highest bolt hanger on Brown Smoothies becoming loose before, but never coming completely off. I think it is due to the overhanging and traversing nature of these routes (Olas Negras & Brown Smoothies' share two bolts: bolts 3 & 4 of Brown Smoothies are bolts 5 & 6 of Olas Negras). Overhangs and traverses cause quickdraws to pull on bolt hangers in directions other than the direction of a fall, and typically, bolt hangers are positioned accounting for the direction of a fall. The variable directions of loading can cause the hangers to turn, loosening over time. This is very common on the first bolts of steeply overhanging climbs. The nuts securing the hangers were treated with Loctite Threadlocker Blue 242 to hopefully prevent them from loosening, but it seems to not be a strong enough adhesive. I think stepping it up to a stronger adhesive like Loctite Threadlocker Red 271 is a logical choice and hopefully will keep the nuts from coming loose in the future. These routes are good candidates for glue-in bolts since glue-ins don't have removable hangers; replacing the Fixe Triplex with some glue-ins would be an effective solution if upgrading the thread-locker proves insufficient.

The nuts are 12 mm internal diameter and are made of 304 stainless steel. If you replace the nut, please make sure to use 304 stainless steel to prevent galvanic corrosion due to mis-matched metals.

Let me know if you'd like to meet up to fix up the route sometime.

Regards, Aaron 6 days ago
Jack Moe
  5.11c
Jack Moe  
  5.11c
To my surprise when I topped this out today and pulled my rope up the 3rd hanger pulled right off the bolt. The nut fell somewhere in the bushes and we couldn't find it. I left the hanger at the base of the climb with the washer. Thank god I didn't fall. Nov 10, 2017
Aaron Formella
Atascadero, CA
  5.11c
Aaron Formella   Atascadero, CA
  5.11c
A new jug appeared on this route where someone pulled off a block sometime in winter of 2015/2016 just a couple feet up and right of bolt two making it possible to go up with the right hand there and get a decent rest alternating holds. It probably doesn't change the grade a whole lot since it's a short climb, just a little less sustained. Apr 12, 2017
Aaron Formella
Atascadero, CA
  5.11c
Aaron Formella   Atascadero, CA
  5.11c
This climb used to be a toprope only. 3 bolts were added to make it a lead climb. Bolts 3 & 4 are shared with Olas Negras' bolts 5 & 6. It's one of the best routes at Cabrillo. Here's a video of the climb with the new lead bolts:

youtu.be/egTlSc7Ziyk Dec 22, 2015
ryan bello  
 
Brown Smoothies is a well bolted and anchored lead climb now. Aaron Formella , John Knight , Ryan Bello summer 2015. Next to the now well bolted and well anchored OLAS NEGRAS.......CLIMB ON Sep 22, 2015
Let me know if you're interested in helping replace these bolts.

John Sep 14, 2010