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Serrated Edge

5.10c, Trad, 500 ft (152 m), 4 pitches, Grade II,  Avg: 3.1 from 22 votes
FA: FA: Rich Doleman, Steve Williams 1971, FFA: Tom Higgins, Bob Kamps
California > Yosemite NP > Tuolumne Meadows > Mariuolumne Dome > W Face
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Description

A very appropriately named route...burly adventure crack climbing. Four pitches up a long right facing dihedral. Excellent.

Pitch 1: Scramble up the orange lichen face 15' right of the broken dihedral with cracks and blocks 5.8. Join the dihedral and follow it past large blocks to the first roof. Hands and stemming out the roof 5.9. Up to the second roof good hands turns to flared hands (crux) for 15 feet till it eases and an obvious stance is reached. Gear belay small to 2" - 90 feet - 5.10a/b.

Pitch 2: Lieback the 3" crack until you can duck into a squeeze chimney with wedged blocks in the back. Jam out the twin hand cracks in the roof to it's right side. Boulder the hard hand crack roof and continue for 20' of easier hands to a small ledge. Take care to not allow the rope to get stuck in the roof. Gear belay large stoppers, 2"-3" nuts or Camalots used as nuts - 80 feet - 5.10b.

Pitch 3: Lieback and jam the wide crack off the belay for 30 feet to yet another roof 5.9. Climb the roof and follow moderate hand cracks to a nice stance in a shallow alcove. Gear belay thin to 2" - 100 feet - 5.9.

Pitch 4: Slightly loose with many ways to go. Jam and knobs up the crack above until it fades ~90 feet. Easy knobs left gain a short right facing corner with a loose flake. Lieback the flake up to a giant black knob 5.8 ~30 feet. Continue moderate cracks and knobs straight up to a tree covered ramp. Gear belay with many options - 200 feet - 5.8.

Pitch 5: Easy third class to the summit following the ramp up and right to near the top of Hobbit Book ~ 100 feet.

Location

Left side of the main Mariuolumne Dome's West Face, about 200 feet left of Hobbit Book is a large, right facing broken dihedral. The route follows this dihedral.

Protection

Standard rack, include 2 each: 2" to 3" cams, 1 each: 3-1/2" & 4" cam, and a few long slings. A 2-1/2" nut (hex) helps for the pitch 2 belay but isn't necessary. No bolts on this route. Follow the standard easy walk off the top to descend.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Diana working out the second pitch crux roof.
[Hide Photo] Diana working out the second pitch crux roof.
Higher up on the route
[Hide Photo] Higher up on the route
Sunshine to Serrated Edge linkup
[Hide Photo] Sunshine to Serrated Edge linkup
Route Overlay: Serrated Edge & Hobbit Book
[Hide Photo] Route Overlay: Serrated Edge & Hobbit Book
P2 crux roof after the squeeze chimney - awkward, technical and burly all at once = good fun
[Hide Photo] P2 crux roof after the squeeze chimney - awkward, technical and burly all at once = good fun
Pitch 2 gear anchor is a little dicey, 2 large DMM trapezoid stoppers and a #2 Camelot used as a nut.
[Hide Photo] Pitch 2 gear anchor is a little dicey, 2 large DMM trapezoid stoppers and a #2 Camelot used as a nut.
Serrated Edge follows the broken right facing corner.
[Hide Photo] Serrated Edge follows the broken right facing corner.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Derek Field
Nevada
  5.10c
[Hide Comment] This is a great add-on to Oz+Gram as it continues in a similar style of climbing (corner cracks and roofs). Loved it. Crux on P2 is pretty burly. Get on it!! Aug 12, 2017
Jake Ramsey
Yosemite, CA
 
[Hide Comment] A good route that is definitely worth doing! The cruxes are short, safe and a little burly. As of now the weird flaring belay at the top of pitch two has two preslung chockstones in there that look sketchy but are bomber. Bringing some bigger hexes wouldn’t be a bad idea for that belay. Also one #3 was sufficient. Jul 7, 2018
Doug Kinsman
Atlanta, GA
[Hide Comment] Great route that has enough burl and polish to make you think you are in the Valley. The amount of bail tat makes me think its a touch sandbagged, especially that P2 roof that is burly and somewhat baffling as an onsight. Climb takes really good gear and I would recommend doubles up to #4 Camalot. Overall a lot of fun and the summit views are outstanding. Sep 11, 2018
Climbing Ivy
NAZ
  5.10c
[Hide Comment] Awesome old school route to top out on Mariuolumne that calls for a wide array of different techniques. Multiple roofs on almost every pitch to keep things exciting - from casual fun passage to technical and mega burly. Even P4, the "easy pitch", is serious business.

Sweet sustained climb with a high burl factor. Go get some!

Gear beta alert -
We took doubles up to #4 camalots and were glad to have the second #4. We never did place the second #3. Ymmv. Sep 23, 2018
Bill Lundeen
Fort Bragg, CA
 
[Hide Comment] Glad to see folks are still doing this awesome burl-fest! Did it in '99 and thought then, as most comments here, that the grade could be bumped up a little... Such amazingly good and awkward jamming! Aug 8, 2020