Type: Trad, 180 ft (55 m), 2 pitches
FA: Greg Barnes, Karin Wuhrmann 2002
Page Views: 1,555 total · 11/month
Shared By: john durr on Aug 25, 2010
Admins: Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Latest updates on Covid and falcon closures. Details

Description

A fun two pitch route with a plethora of bolts at the hard bit. A good route to get ready for Crying Time Again on Lembert.

Easy 5th class face climbing up to a right arching corner with great gear. Follow this right and up past more flakes and gear to a short bit of face climbing past two great bolts to an uncomfortable bolted belay ~100 feet of easy 5.8.

From the belay, fire up past closely spaced bolts on sustained, steep, small knobs for 50 feet. Move past this up to the right side of a small roof with a great 0.5-1" cam. Work left here below the roof then up to a bolt. Less well protected knobs 5.9 past a last bolt and a bolted belay ~ 80 feet of great 5.10a/b knobs.

Location

This route on the right side of the Spaceballs group of climbs, left side of the Dark Side Dome's West Face. Usually has a pile of snow below it. Look for a pretty, right curving corner / flake that does not reach the ground for the start.

Protection

Set of stoppers and cams to 1-1/2", lots of quick draws for bolts. Two bolted belays with rappel rings. All the bolts are bomber. Rappel the route with a single 60 meter rope - two rappels!

Photos