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Routes in Seven Falls Area

Holy Grail, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Left Leaning Crack T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Leviticus S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: FA, Kevin Brown. FFA, Steve Edwards
Page Views: 1,349 total, 15/month
Shared By: andy patterson on Aug 22, 2010
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This route sees few ascents, partly because it sits all by its lonesome in an off-beat location, and partly because it is absurdly hard. Leviticus isn't THE most difficult climb on the central coast from a grade perspective, but it is certainly one of the most technically challenging. At 5.12d, it doesn't give an inch, and touts one of the more memorable—and painful—cruxes for miles in all directions. If you can link through the bottom three bolts of this vicious and powerful line, you will likely have some shredded skin on at least one of your digits. And then the pump starts...

Without giving too much away, here's the breakdown:

1) tie in, get nervous
2) perform a stupid hard finger-lock boulder problem (V7 or V8)
3) Grunt in pain
4) Transition in to lie-back section of route
5) Don't get tired before you get to the anchors

Location

Steep face on right side of creek before you get to the actual Seven Falls area (for those not "in-the-know", I'm talking about the swimming holes). The overhanging crack is unmistakable.

Protection

Six bolts to open shuts.
andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
 
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
 
Don't worry, the first jam isn't the crux. This route has seen multiple breakages (read: a breakage every time someone tries to redpoint it), but it still holds true at the grade. Mar 9, 2015
Jack Hereford blew out the jam with his sausage fingers. Don't worry, it's probably just as hard as before. Mar 9, 2015
Jack Hereford
Tucson, AZ
Jack Hereford   Tucson, AZ
Part of the first pencil sharpener has broken off... it was clearly Ian Bloom up to his typical sandbaggery Mar 9, 2015