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Routes in Head Wall

All Things Considered S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
China Crisis S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Coughing up Fleming S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dreams of White Horsts S,TR 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Feng Shui S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Great White Shark, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Hubba Bubba S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Little Creatures T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Masterpiece Theatre S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Reaches From Hell S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Skinhead Grin S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Skinhead Sin S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
So Freakin' Fun S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Stellar Idea S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Take me to the River T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tworgasaminimum T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Verde Bunyan S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Verde Suave S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Eric Horst, Rick Thompson, Stuart Pregnall, 1987
Page Views: 350 total, 4/month
Shared By: Jeremy Steck on Aug 22, 2010
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath

You & This Route


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Writing in chalk Details

Description

If you are searching for a good bolted moderate, this one is worth coming to the Head Wall to do. Climb up a crack and make a long traverse left along a horizontal crack to reach the white arete (crux). When doing the traverse, you can take the high road or the low road, without changing the grade. At the arete, climb up and gain a stance on the left side. Climb up the left side of the arete to reach the anchors.

Location

From the Right Side of the head wall, continue down stream along the cliff line, following the trail up hill a bit. Start on a ledge to the left of a large tree and to the left of the obvious bolted offwidth (China Crisis, 5.11b).

Protection

5 bolts, shuts.

Photos

Grant Dunstan
Caledon East, Ontario
 
Grant Dunstan   Caledon East, Ontario
 
Ill have to disagree with the below comments.Very Unique and interesting rock climb worth doing! Def. Spicy if 5.9 is your onsight limit. Sweet horizontal hand jams while smearing your feet was interesting. If you are short you may find the clipping stances up on the slab challenging. Oct 7, 2014