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Chaos Out of Control

5.10+, Trad, 190 ft, 2 pitches,  Avg: 3.7 from 9 votes
FA: Monty Reagan, Ken Pitts (1987)
N Carolina > Looking Glass Rock > S Side

Description

I feel this could be the best 5.10 face route on the Glass. Chaos offers sustained climbing on flawless rock. The gear is good and a bit spaced out at times but nothing death defying.

The Lambert guide describes this route in two pitches but we used to always do it in one long pitch. You'll need 2 60m ropes to rap.

One memorable ascent involved my buddy Curtin on the on sight attempt on a late summer's evening. The clouds were turning black fast as he moved past the first belay. Not long after the sky started to crack and boom and I not so subtly told him to hurry the #$@$ up. He punched it up the second half of the pitch in record time, cleaned the route on rappel, and we ran down the South Side trail as the sky unloaded with rain and lighting striking all around.

Location

Left side of the South Side.

This route is located up on the ledge with Dinkus Dog and Unfinished Concerto. Locate the obvious twin water grooves located to the right of Dinkus Dog and Parachute Woman.

Protection

You might need a large hand size (#2 or #3) piece down low. Lots of TCU's, a few bolts, tri cams are always helpful at the Glass.

Update: 11/2018 The upper portion of this above the bolts protects well with large finger and hand size cams. Save a .5, .75. 1, and 2 for up here.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Pano of Choas in the P2 crux. Undercling-high-step over a tricam, classic Looking Glass. Photo credit goes to Kyle Jones at bluewallphotography.
[Hide Photo] Pano of Choas in the P2 crux. Undercling-high-step over a tricam, classic Looking Glass. Photo credit goes to Kyle Jones at bluewallphotography.
The characteristic thin edges that make up the difficult sections of this climb.
[Hide Photo] The characteristic thin edges that make up the difficult sections of this climb.
JP and I at the first pitch belay. Photo credit to Kyle Jones at bluewallphotography
[Hide Photo] JP and I at the first pitch belay. Photo credit to Kyle Jones at bluewallphotography
Mary making the thin moves to pull over the P1 crux bulge.
[Hide Photo] Mary making the thin moves to pull over the P1 crux bulge.
Mary getting into the fun water groove above the crux on P2.
[Hide Photo] Mary getting into the fun water groove above the crux on P2.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

rock-fencer
Columbia, SC
  5.10c/d PG13
[Hide Comment] This climb is excellent! The rock is high quality. Heady moves above gear. Gear is pretty standard (every 10-15 feet or so)mostly thin, & sometimes questionable but mostly decent to good. Would not want to do this on a hot day. 2 bolts on 2nd pitch up to ring anchors. Can take up to top with another pitch and end at hemlock to climbers left. Sep 17, 2011
TomCaldwell
Clemson, S.C.
 
[Hide Comment] Great thin face climbing with a fun water groove finish. The groove is very well protected compared to Dinkus. Definitely want a #2 for up there and doubles in the medium hands and smaller with some tri-cams. The start is probably the most dangerous, but its over with quickly and there is gear. P1's bulge pull is well protected, but the section afterwards requires very specific gear otherwise it will be marginal and scary. Entire P2 is phenomenal climbing. Oct 5, 2011
chummer
  5.10c
[Hide Comment] Can be climbed and rapped on a single 80m if you got one. May 28, 2012
[Hide Comment] The first pitch is scary and you should be solid at .10a tech face/ slab before you attempt it. Sandbaggers... Sep 11, 2012
Bryan Haslam
Asheville, North Carolina
[Hide Comment] Agree with Phoffman.... Back in the day, this route worked me and I felt it was poorly protected compared with Dinkus. Good climbing but be solid at the grade. Jun 18, 2014
Samuel Gerber
Carrboro
  5.10d R
[Hide Comment] Getting over the bulge in the first pitch of the lambert guide felt like the crux and harder than anything on the second pitch. Couldn't find any decent gear for a while after that crux and I think this deserves an R rating unless I was off route. The crux also felt harder than Breakfast of Champions at Rumbling Bald which I climbed the next day Jan 22, 2018