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Khazad-dûm

5.10b, Sport, 30 ft (9 m),  Avg: 2.7 from 112 votes
FA: Ken Cook, Werner Landry, Glaen Kirkwood
California > San Diego County > S San Diego County > Mission Gorge > Middle Earth

Description

Two definite schools of thought on the start. I led in directly from below being taller, using some dynamic moves and smearing. Partner very delicately came in from left side. Solid reachy hands with good feet in between gaps of blankness. Fun route.

Location

Just right of Dimrill stair. Surprised was not in MP.com already, seemed like a commonly done route.

Right side of Middle earth corridor.

Protection

3 bolts, bolted anchors

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Sequence on Khazaddum.
[Hide Photo] Sequence on Khazaddum.
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Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Kyle Wills
Whidbey Island, WA
  5.10a/b
[Hide Comment] 10a/b if you're strong and lanky. Maybe harder if not. Aug 22, 2010
RAZORsharp
CA
  5.10a/b
[Hide Comment] I noticed there was a good amount of chalk to the right of the third bolt. That variation is easier than going direct. I felt that the direct deserved a b/c ish rating. Fun none the less! Feb 15, 2013
Little Billy
  5.10a/b
[Hide Comment] Did the start coming from the left (following three successive edges) and moving across at the bolt. Fun, dynamic movements. My partner mentioned a direct start straight down from the first bolt...looked damn near impossible to me, or at the very least harder than 10a/b. Feb 6, 2016
Robert M
[Hide Comment] One of the holds about 3/4 of the way up is coming loose, to the point where you could probably wiggle it out if you really wanted to. I ran the route once today without it to see if it can be done without that hold (it can), but it definitely makes it a little more challenging, probably a solid 10c. May 21, 2021
Tim West
San Diego, CA
 
[Hide Comment] Great climb! I tried the start 2 ways: first by establishing on the large edges and moving up with high feet, second by standing up on small edges on the left and reaching out to the flared pocket. Either approach is challenging requires good balance!

As mentioned by RAZORsharp, it seems most beta moves to the right at the third bolt. This seemed way more doable to me, although it's using holds on Andúril. Direct only has really tiny edges to work with.

The wallet-size loose block mentioned by Robert is still captive. Oct 21, 2023