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Routes in Upper Buttress

Axis of Evil S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mystery Death Block S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a PG13
Unusual Suspects S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Jack Marshall and Jeff Constine
Page Views: 1,258 total, 14/month
Shared By: Sean Denny on Aug 20, 2010
Admins: jt512, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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5 Opinions

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Description

As I recall, the crux comes at a little above midway, where you have to negotiate a slight bulge with really crappy holds. Of course, I haven't been on this in a few years, so maybe those holds aren't as bad as I'm currently imagining. Regardless, this was really fun to tinker on, but I don't remember this being as good as its 5.11 neighbor to the left.

Location

Starts about 8 feet right of Axis of Evil on the second highest ledge.

Protection

Several bolts to chains. Shared anchor with Axis of Evil.

Photos

Nothing has changed on Unusual Suspects,, I do laps on it weekly, it is the same as its be since i put it up. Aug 5, 2013
Ryan Kelly
work.
  5.12b
Ryan Kelly   work.
  5.12b
Agreed on the onsight crux. Disagree on the quasi-undercling breaking; it's just not as positive now, still totally usable. I'm undecided on the me being an asshole thing. Sep 8, 2010
Ryan Kelly
work.
  5.12b
Ryan Kelly   work.
  5.12b
I'd call the crux higher up than the bulge, but YMMV. There's a strenuous sidepull/highstep on a sharp pocket-like gash. I broke an edge off it so it's not as positive as it used to be - oops. Didn't alter the move any, just doesn't feel quite as secure.

Regardless, fun route that stays consistent throughout. One of the better routes at Tick. Sep 7, 2010