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Routes in Upper Buttress

Axis of Evil S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mystery Death Block S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a PG13
Unusual Suspects S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Jack Marshall and Jeff Constine
Page Views: 1,167 total, 13/month
Shared By: Sean Denny on Aug 20, 2010
Admins: jt512, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

The best route on the wall, follow long pulls on large through various weaknesses in roughly a straight line to a crux, thought provoking, top-out traverse. Going straight up from the last bolt looks possible, but much harder than 5.11. It is also way way way better to do the traverse and end up on a summit ramp that is not more than three feet wide.

Location

The uppermost and leftmost route on the Upper Buttress. There is a nice belay ledge and a bolt to keep the belayer from flying off said ledge. That being said, the ledge at the base of the route to the right is lower and the belayer is in no danger there. I prefer that belay.

Protection

Several bolts to chains.

Photos

AndrewArroz  
 
Just did this for the first time after a dozen trips to this spot. Agree that it's the most interesting thing on the crag. The route just flows and requires some thoughtful, balancing moves. That last move to the right had me stumped and flummoxed for a while. Sep 11, 2016
Christian B
West Hills, California
  5.10c
Christian B   West Hills, California
  5.10c
Super solid climb, but chains at the top will be in need of replacing soon or at least the bolts holding them in. Feb 17, 2016
Lance Ranzer  
 
Great climb! Huge CRUX at the top - small grips on nasty slopers with not much feet to support. Be careful of the nice flake hold above the slopers, its crumbling a tad (grab it higher up on the left) Jun 23, 2014
Ryan Kelly
work.
  5.10
Ryan Kelly   work.
  5.10
Fun route, good warmup. But very inconsistent. Mostly 5.10- climbing with one move at the top. Sep 7, 2010