Type: Trad, Alpine, 100 ft (30 m)
FA: Rip Griffith, Drew Hardesty, summer 1998
Page Views: 1,458 total · 8/month
Shared By: Boissal . on Aug 20, 2010
Admins: Jim Clarke, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane

You & This Route


12 Opinions
Your To-Do List: Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Rating Rating Rating Rating Rating      Clear Rating
Your Difficulty Rating:
-none- Change
Your Ticks:Add New Tick
-none-
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Warning Access Issue: Located in a National Forest Fee Area DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Free Passage starts with about 50' of dihedral crack (The Passage, 5.7) to a ledge where you might spot some webbing from days long gone. Make sure to use long runners on that first part, especially if you place gear in the dihedral above the ledge.
Continuing straight up would have you face rotten rock (that's The Passage); instead move up and right on the steep face using nice horizontals that eventually deposit you below a roof split by a hand crack maybe 10' left of the bolted Don't Tell Jonny.
Tackle the roof and enjoy another 30' of hands-to-finger goodness, eventually finding yourself in a blocky alcove. Scamper up and right out of this one to get to the chains.

Location Suggest change

Free Passage climbs the first half of the massive dihedral that separates the south facing classics (Don't Tell Johnny, Wish You Were Here) from the rest of the more east-facing Moore Wall.
It eventually wanders on the steep S face after the halfway point.

Protection Suggest change

Seems like a set of nuts and a single set of cams from BD #0 micro to BD #3 is sufficient. You could bring a #4 for the lower dihedral but the climbing is easy and the gear options plentiful.
I remember wishing for a second .75 at the roof but a #1 worked fine.
The horizontals gobble small cams, the upper crack swallows nuts.
Long runners are mandatory in the first half if you don't want rope drag to prevent any form of Passage.

Lower off - if I remember well - a newer 2 bolts + chains anchor. Or maybe some of those fat Metolius hangers...

Photos

loading