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Routes in (6) Main Cliff

2Trad4U T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Day of Atonement T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Eternal Buffalo, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Freak Freely T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Happy Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hollow Victory T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Lion of Judah (aka Sugar and Spice) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lonesome Winner, The T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Naughty and Nice T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Oracle T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Solid Gold T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Urbaby's Daddy T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wushu Roof T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Trad
FA: Jim Opdycke, Mike Jackson @1985 - Bryan Smith FFA 2010
Page Views: 255 total, 3/month
Shared By: adam winslow on Aug 18, 2010
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


18 Opinions

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Description

Start just left of Day of Atonement and head up a shattered left-facing shallow corner crack. Continue directly up a minor corner/chimney feature until you can traverse left under an overhanging block to gain the anchor on the top. 2nd route done here.

Protection

Gear to 3".

Photos

Healyje
PDX
Healyje   PDX
Hmmm. Gotta say the route protects well for the entire pitch if you are a competent trad leader at the grade... May 11, 2017
Nate Ball
Portland, OR
  5.10-
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
  5.10-
The hand crack start to the ledge is stellar. From there, it's a ramble for about 40' with very minimal protection, the best being a shallow flared pod that you might or might not get a reliable #.75 into. At the flake below the roof, there is a decent #.4 placement which can be backed up with a (offset?) nut nearby. Pulling over this and onto the slab is a really fun sequence. The route itself is good, but definitely not a great choice if you're working for the grade. Apr 18, 2017
BrianWilson
Brush Prairie, Washington
 
BrianWilson   Brush Prairie, Washington
 
I felt it was a really fun 10a with just a little limited pro section in the middle (which was remedied with a small offset). Just keep your eyes open. Apr 18, 2016
Topher Dabrowski
  5.10a
Topher Dabrowski  
  5.10a
SUGAR & SPICE has good gear but the cams need to be placed carefully as the cracks are flared with only specific spots being parallel.

0.3-3.0 Cams, 2x 0.75
Set of Nuts Jun 6, 2015
Healyje
PDX
Healyje   PDX
Sugar and Spice is the name everyone uses for this line - it finishes up and right to the anchor it now shares with 'Day of Atonement' and there is an intermediate pin on the way to it. Here Bryan and I part company - the top out to the anchor is not a big deal at all in my opinion and don't feel there is any need for a PG-13 rating. Sep 3, 2010
bryans
  5.10a PG13
bryans  
  5.10a PG13
Actually, Lion of Judah stops at the 30-35 foot ledge with two dihedrals above it, and no anchor. The left side dihedral is the finish to "Naughty and Nice" and goes at 10d. The right side dihedral I called "Sugar and Spice" after I rapped in, trundled loose blocks, and freed it on lead. It goes at slightly spicy 10a. Jim and Mike may have aided one or both dihedrals, but did not free either.

A note for leaders and their followers: to reach an anchor while leading "Lion of Judah/Sugar and Spice," upon reaching the obvious minor roof around 60 feet you must either traverse even further left to the "Naughty and Nice" anchor (your second must be solid at 5.8/9 or else a swing could be ugly), or else climb around the minor roof to reach the "Day of Atonement" anchor on the right. I hope this helps clarify the relationship between these three routes. Aug 30, 2010