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Routes in (5) Fir Tree Ledge

Center Squeeze T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Darkhorse, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Squeeze Play TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Thin Line , The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Tunnel Vision T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Trad
FA: Bill Coe, Jim Opdycke
Page Views: 400 total, 4/month
Shared By: adam winslow on Aug 18, 2010
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


8 Opinions

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Description

A nice boulder start leads to a stem past the outside of the obvious 40' squeeze chimney which takes small cams/lowe balls inside of it while you basically face climb to avoid using the squeeze chimney, then up easy climbing to a couple of small staggered ledges mid-pitch. Catch your breath, then stretch and clip the first of 2 bolts, then, while trying not to pull what looks like a detached pillar onto you, pull the pillar, stuff the big cam into your right handhold and then head up the easier 20' finish to a rap anchor on top.

Protection

Mixed gear and 2 bolts - Pro, small nuts and cams, Lowe balls, especially helpful is the Medium Supercam size for the piece above the 2nd bolt.

Photos

Topher Dabrowski
  5.10b
Topher Dabrowski  
  5.10b
The start of this route sucks. The climbing is about 5.5 until you reach the large ledge midway up on the route, there is little to no gear getting there and plenty of sketchy rock.

A better option would be to climb Thin Line, clip it's three bolts with longer slings and then trend left to the midway ledge on Center Squeeze and take it from there.

The large cam in the big pocket isn't as secure as using a 0.5BD cam in the slot at the bottom of the same pocket IMO. Jun 29, 2015