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Routes in (7) The Bare Buttress

Adam's Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bill's Thrill T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Left Cheek, The S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Right Cheek, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Scary as Fuck T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Snake T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Snake Buttress TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sweet Surprise T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
White Lightening T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Adam Winslow, Bill Coe, Jesse Hudson 1/31/09
Page Views: 974 total, 11/month
Shared By: adam winslow on Aug 18, 2010
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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Description

Climb using the crack and large face holds up to a small obvious maple tree where the route eases. Consider clipping a sling high on that to keep the rope running freely. Head up to the large Doug Fir and rap off the ring on the tree. A bolted anchor was considered but rejected for this route.

Protection

A few small nuts and cams to 1-1/2" although there are plenty of great placements for smaller gear and hexes. This would be a great first gear route for a potential aspiring leader and has been aid climbed by numerous parties.

Photos

das1405
Portland
 
das1405   Portland
 
there is a bolted anchor at the top of this route that makes for easy set up of top-rope. Near the top/crux it seemed you could go right, following the flake towards a small tree or go left following the small finger crack, pulling over a bulge, then continuing straight up over a finishing bolder move. Anchor is a short easy scrable away but is unprotected. I did it both ways and found the left option to be more fun/challenging. route protects well. Next time I'm bringing supplies to clean right cheek - seems like no one has climbed that in years Aug 22, 2016
Micah Klesick
Vancouver, WA
  5.7
Micah Klesick   Vancouver, WA  
  5.7
Easy climbing with lots of gear options up to a cruxy move pulling over a little bulge. Once you hit the little maple tree, the rest of the route is basically dirt and sap. Someone needs to sling that maple and make it the anchor. 40' of scrambling up dirt isn't worth it... I'd recommend cutting left right before the maple tree and joining the last bolt of Left Cheek to the bolt anchors there. Aug 15, 2015
Jeff Hofheins 1
Portland, OR
Jeff Hofheins 1   Portland, OR
There is a new sport route immediately to the left of this route (I think it's new and not on here). It climbs about a 5.7. Really dirty. Tried to clean it up a bit. No idea who set it. Jul 10, 2015
Richard Denker
Portland OR
 
Richard Denker   Portland OR
 
Dana and I climbed this on 1-Oct-2010. Though short it is a clean and fun route. After slinging the maple tree the route climbs more or less straight up blocks and dirty/mossy rock up to a large fir tree. However if no one is on Urbaby’s Daddy, once you sling the maple tree head left to Urbaby’s daddy anchor, not that it is any more interesting then the regular finish, but you can set up top-rope for Urbaby’s Daddy and have a better rap. Oct 6, 2010