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Routes in Khartoum

Empire Strikes Back T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Gone Postal T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Original Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Star Wars T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Three the hard way. T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 800 ft, 9 pitches, Grade III
FA: J. Dunkley A. Durie
Page Views: 1,552 total, 17/month
Shared By: a d on Aug 17, 2010
Admins: Kate Lynn

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Description

Awesome climb!!
Short section of bolt protected 10+.
Follows cracks, flakes, dikes, knobs, for 5 pitches to tree Island. P.1 is obvious left trending finger crack across face(10a). P.2 technical face climbing on knobs(10d). P.3 follows flake to face, bolt,and right to crack. Up this to belay(10a). P.4 follows dikes up and left to crack splitting face seen from below.(.9) P.5 obvious crack to tree island(.8)
Move belay left to base of huge dihedral, climb it to it's end, and gear belay(.8)P.7 left across face (bolts) to crack, and up to ledge(10a). P.8 follows horizontal crack right for 55m(.9). P.9 Short crack to summit(.8)
For Descent "hike" up, and right, and back down to rap route (see topo)

Location

From end of approach trail @ base, head right for 80m to large downed tree. P1 is the obvious left trending crack across face.

Protection

Double set of cams to 3", stoppers.
2 x 60m ropes.
Pitches 1 to 4, and p8 have bolted belay anchors.

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