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Choss Bubbles (summer var. to an existing winter route)

5.9- YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 16 ZA HVS 4c British


 Avg: 1 from 1 vote

Routes in Rolling Mountain

Choss Bubbles (summer var. to an existing winter route) T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, Alpine, 1600 ft, 4 pitches, Grade III
FA: unknown
Page Views: 744 total, 8/month
Shared By: Nic Harnish on Aug 17, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Ascend the longest section of the North Face directly to the summit starting on a 500 foot slab wall. This is the best rock on the route. Three pitches will get you to the top with the second pitch being the 5.9 crux, but 99% of the climbing is around 5.6/7. Excellent slab climbing. Upon reaching the top of the initial slab wall about 400-500 feet of very loose, class 3 scrambling brings you to the "choss bubbles", a strange, bubbly-looking formation of gravely granite. One pitch of 5.7R will be enough to surpass this strange little section. It's R-rated for the few legitimate placements and the fact that it's like climbing on small marbles. After this section is another 400-500 feet of class 3/4 scrambling on extremely loose terrain. We chose to simul-climb this portion as a safety precaution. After this ridiculous bullshit, you've summited. Yeah. I gave this route one star for the initial, fun slab pitches, otherwise this route blows. Have fun!

Location

The route ascends the longest section of the North Face directly to the summit. Descend via the West ridge over the West sister peak and and down the other side to a low saddle and downclimb to the camp.

Protection

Set of cams from 0.5 inches to 2 inches and a set of stoppers.
Nic Harnish
Durango, CO
 
Nic Harnish   Durango, CO
 
Yes, winter conditions would certainly be favorable and more exciting for this face. I would call Choss Bubbles an unfavorable summer variation to the Dave F. and Martinelli line. Oct 28, 2011
DaveF Farkas
Durango, CO
DaveF Farkas   Durango, CO
Interesting line. Looks a lot like one of my routes with my partner Lou Martinelli (Durango) although we climbed it in early winter conditions, so there was a lot rock/ice on the pitches. To date, I've climbed 4 routes there. Always exciting...always loose. I guess the names sums up the experience. Oct 25, 2011
Chris Wenker
Santa Fe
Chris Wenker   Santa Fe
Interesting. Any idea how your line might relate to this summitpost guy's mixed route, or any of his other (unpublished) lines on Rolling Mtn?

16 Penny Jun 29, 2011