PRINT: Rock Climb Blood Meridian, Squamish

Blood Meridian

5.12c, Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 3 pitches, Grade IV,

Avg: 2.3 from 3 votes
FA: Colin Moorhead, Mandoline Clark, June 2010
International > N America > Canada > British Columbia > Squamish > Stawamus Chief > N Walls

Access Issue: SIGNIFICANT ROCK FALL CLOSURES - UPDATED Feb 29th 2024 Details

For the most up-to-date information about closures in the Stawamus Chief Park, please refer to the following link: bcparks.ca/stawamus-chief-p…

The closures posted on this Mountain Project page are the latest according to the date mentioned above.

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TRAIL TO THE PROW AND ECHELON WALL VIA THE SHERIFF'S BADGE CLOSURE

Due to a rockfall event on April 17, 2023, the approach/access trail to the Prow and Echelon wall via the Sheriff’s Badge have been impacted. Please stay out of this area until the full extent of this event has been determined.

Posted April 17, 2023

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Due to multiple significant rockfalls in the North Wall, Slhanay, Grand Wall, and Western Dihedrals climbing areas of Stawamus Chief, a large number of climbing routes and bouldering areas are currently closed until further notice. Efforts are underway to assess and remove hazards in the hopes of opening some of these areas soon.

NORTH WALL CLOSURE

The following routes in this area remain closed until further notice due to a large rock fall event. All routes between Lunar Tide and Polaris on the upper Zodiac Wall, as well as all routes between Parallel Universe and Polaris on the Lower Zodiac Wall. The Climb known as Angel’s Crest is open, please be cautions on the approach and avoid the debris field to the left.

Climbing Route Closure Map: nrs.objectstore.gov.bc.ca/k…

GRAND WALL BOULDERS CLOSURE

Due to hazards created by significant rockfall events the following bouldering areas(and associated trails) remain closed until further notice. Lipsmack: Black Sabbath & Halfway Around the world, Octogon: Kemoslabby and Viper: Old and Serious, Beachcomber & Towlie.

Boudlering Closure Map: nrs.objectstore.gov.bc.ca/k…

WESTERN DIHEDRALS CLOSURE

Due to hazards created by significant rockfall events the following climbing routes between Teenage wasteland and Deadend Dihedral remain closed until further notice. Including: The Black Dyke, The Gauntlet, The Façade, Sticky Fingers, Sunset Strip, Millenium Falcon, Rutabaga, Turnip Arrowroot, and Europa.

Climbing Route Closure Map: nrs.objectstore.gov.bc.ca/k…

Updated June 30, 2023

Access Issue: Camping Details

The popularity of Squamish within the #vanlife community has increased to the point that there is great concern about the group’s collective environmental impact. “Wild” or “Freedom” camping has become unmanageable environmentally because of the high numbers of campers. This is a serious issue that causes conflict between locals, home owners, and climbers!

VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING

Within District Boundaries

The  District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.

Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.

The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.

· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)

· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff

· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”

Outside of District Boundaries

If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;

· Stays are limited to 14 days.

· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.

· Strictly observe any current fire bans.

DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS

Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.

Recommended affordable camping:

- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required

Description

This climb ascends the exposed arete to right of High Plains Drifter. Excellent, varied crack and face climbing. Some of the best positions on the Chief.

Pitch 1. 5,12c. Overhanging tips layback. Difficult moves around lip (crux) lead to easier hand crack which peters out to tricky face climbing exit.

Pitch 2. 5.12a. Beautiful exposed arete climbing with amazing crimps and multiple cruxes. Bolted but a 00 tcu and yellow alien were used to protect the exit. Down climb ledge to belay below pitch 2 of High Plains Drifter.

Pitch 3. 5.11c. Climb crux pitch of the Drifter.

Location

Approach as for High Plains Drifter at vetical gulley that leads to the Drifter, continue 10 meters along main ledge and pull into alcove at the base of pitch one.

Protection

One set of cams to gold bd. extra tiny cams, green c3 seemed critical to protecting crux. Nuts.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

photo topo

The arete pitch 5.12a.<br>
I-phone photo. Taken from the top of Angels Crest.

The arete pitch 5.12a. I-phone photo. Taken from the top of Angels Crest.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Evan Stevens
Squamish, BC

5.12c PG13

A cool line in a spectacular position. We approached via angel's crest, but I would recommend subsequent parties to rap in from the top with a wire brush and do some pre-cleaning. This route is good, but rarely traveled so chances are you will find it dirty and flakey. After we did a pass or two it improved a little bit. The first pitch is not too hard for the grade, with good rests. The second pitch has some runouts and the need for 2 or 3 pieces of gear...maybe it should just be fully bolted? Finishing on the last pitch of the drifter is a great way to end as well. Jul 11, 2011

Drew Marshall
Squamish, BC

definitely worth rapping in to pre-scrub P1.
My partner and I both ripped a .2 that we thought was good at the crux - a .1/.2 offset was the answer and nice on p2 as well May 21, 2021