Nathan Tomlin Boulder, CO   5.5

[Hide Comment] The two webpages mentioned above with info on the climb rated it a 5.7. However, I thought it was easier and the same as Wilson Arch Regular Route, which was rated a 5.3, so I'm splitting the difference and calling both a 5.5. Aug 17, 2010

Zach Allen

[Hide Comment] Great route to take beginners on! Spacious, comfy ledges at every belay. Great summit and views, well protected with bolts where you need them. Could possibly place two finger-sized cams on the entire route, but not necessary. One double rope rap to the ground. There are several sets of unnecessary bolt anchors on the summit and around the arch, maybe a dozen odd bolts that could be pulled and patched. Was someone practice drilling, or what? Nov 8, 2010

Pete Johnson Colorado   5.5

[Hide Comment] What a great day (feel weird calling it a climb). Get your party hoisted up to the first belay and off you go! Some exposed (left/right) friction moves on the second pitch but it's mostly Class 4. Short 15' rap off the south end of the arch to the 'window' - we had 4 people there and it was crowded (and cold in the winter shade). 2x60m ropes to get down from there. All around fun! Mar 4, 2011

Christian "crisco" Burrell PG, Utah

[Hide Comment] Really fun and fast climb! Here are a few notes: -We found one more bolt than listed per pitch (on the first pitch they are usually found on a flat spot/ledge before or after when you would actually want them). -Bring a 1/2 cam for a mantle just before the first belay (bolt in pretty far below you) There is a nice jug but it felt loose. -Link pitches 2& 3 with a 70 m rope easily. -1 70 m rope will get down the rap (just enough rope) -The crack below the arch leading to the rappel hole would be an INCREDIBLE line!!! But way out of my league. -The rap sling seemed good. But I wonder why a chain doesn't get left. It would last a lot longer and would NEVER be seen by anyone not up there. -The rap itself was worth the 3 hour drive. VERY COOL! -If you look around on the summit you will spot some very random bolts...??? The ledge on the south ridge has a VERY strange line of bolts...??? Who drilled these things and why I wonder. Mar 6, 2011

Tristan Higbee Pocatello, ID

[Hide Comment] Fun, easy route with a REALLY fun rappel. Rappel anchor looked bomber; good webbing with several bolts. I created a printable PDF beta sheet thealoof.com/climbing-looki… for the route (including a map). Mar 6, 2011

Adam Roy

[Hide Comment] A couple friends and I added a summit register to the top of Looking Glass. If you want to check it out before you rap, it's in a Nalgene under the cairn at the very tip-top of the arch. Jan 21, 2012

Stan Jones Benbrook, TX   5.4

[Hide Comment] When I pulled the ropes, the ends of the second 60m met about 30 feet above my head, so the rap must be about 130 feet. Jun 12, 2012

Brian Aitken New York, NY   5.4 PG13

[Hide Comment] Can easily be done in two pitches with a 60 or 70m rope. A 70m rope gets you to the ground for the rappel... no need to double up. Aug 1, 2012

Josh Schutz Estes Park and Telluride, Colo

[Hide Comment] Be really careful about the rattlesnakes. We came across 6 in the rocks right at the start of the first pitch. Apr 26, 2013

ErinnB Lone tree CO   5.5 PG13

[Hide Comment] The rope swing was a lot of fun. I highly recommend it!! Aug 9, 2013

Brandon Ashby Kamas, UT

[Hide Comment] This has become a standard for me now when I am in Moab. There always seems to be a beginner climber or two in my group when I make the trip to Moab and I always take them here. This is an easy climb with fantastic exposure. An absolutely thrilling, picturesque rappel back down truly makes for the perfect afternoon adventure. I don't care how hard you climb, if you don't find this fun you aren't into climbing for the right reasons. Never had a bad day with friends at looking glass... Aug 13, 2013

Nathan Tomlin Boulder, CO   5.5

[Hide Comment] Holy rattlesnakes! Rattlesnakes live in the holes at the base - there were 2 right on the ledge for the first foothold of the climb when we got there. The group ahead of us didn't see them at all, which is really scary because they could come out at any time. A 6 foot non-rattlesnake also lives in the hole a couple feet left of the start. A few minutes after we got there, the rattlesnakes went back in their holes. We were worried that after the leader went up, they would come back out, and the belayer wouldn't be able to follow (or belay or keep their pants clean). So we ended up free soloing the first 10 feet to a nice ledge free of snake dens where we could belay in peace. If you leave your bag at the base of the climb, I would move it far away from the rock, but that's just me. beward of snakes at the start of looking glass rock! Oct 17, 2013

Patrick Kane

[Hide Comment] Take the rattlesnake warning seriously: there were two there in just the small approach from the car. Sep 8, 2014

cstebbins024 Laramie, WY

[Hide Comment] The rating is 5.5 but it is probably more like 5.2. However falling to one side or the other would be quite the fall. Watch for snakes as mentioned. Quickly climb up to the first ledge and belay there. Otherwise your belayer will be standing right by the snakes. The climb is fun, rap is better, but the rope swing makes it all worthwhile. After the rap walk up into the amphitheater looking for a ledge with bird poop below it. Rig your rope tightly to your harness and run toward the Looking Glass and jump. Super fun! Oct 10, 2014

Brandon Mathis Durango

[Hide Comment] We hit up the looking glass on a windy day in December. Incredible outing. Good multi pitch intro. Amazing rapp. Rope swing is a must. Enjoy! 4cornerstv.com/channel/brea… Dec 24, 2014

Brian Marsh Carbondale, CO

[Hide Comment] i left 2 stuck ropes hanging from the rap on 2/18. id be forever grateful to someone if they were returned. Feb 19, 2015

Jim Fox Westminster, CO   5.4 PG13

[Hide Comment] Went to climb this on 3/23/15 & there was a very active, somewhat aggressive snake on the very first step of the climb. I had read posts on MP saying that there were rattlkesnakes at base of climb, so I was unwilling to get too close to it. My climbing partner said he heard it rattling but I did not (he was by the snake and I was at our car). Anyway, it didn't look like any rattlesnakes I have seen before and was about 5-6 feet long. The most common rattler in the Moab area is the midget faded western rattlesnake, but they typically don't get over 2 feet long. At any rate, I never got very close to him but took a picture with a zoom lens, which I later posted on MP. An astute climber identified it as a gopher snake, which I looked up online and confirmed that is what we saw. This may be what previous posters have seen as well, given the reported length. gopher snake There were 1 or 2 other snakes hiding back in holes at the base and they were possibly rattlers- they had triangular heads but I never got a real good look at them... Mar 27, 2015

Roy Suggett

[Hide Comment] Gopher snakes are GREAT snakes that eat all sorts of things we humans despise! They often coil and shake their tail to rattle near by vegetation in an evolutionary effort to convince predators they are venomous. With the onslaught of we humans this is not working out so well. Still, a great snake! Mar 27, 2015

James Garrett Salt Lake City, UT

[Hide Comment] A number of the old stud bolts and sleeve bolts (all of which were sticking way out or were spinners) were pulled and replaced by Glue In SS bolts. The same hole was used in all placements. Though this route is easy and often soloed, it is important to keep in mind that often the fixed hardware on these routes can not be entirely trusted. It may be a good idea to place gear where possible. The rap anchor was fortified as well. A fun outing! Sep 18, 2015

curt86iroc Lakewood, CO   5.4 PG13

[Hide Comment] easy climbing (more like scrambling) but well worth it for the amazing rappel!! belay the first pitch from the top of the first block. Oct 4, 2015

Eli B.   Easy 5th

[Hide Comment] Not sure if this can even be called grade 5, but the Rappel is AWESOME! Fun way to spend an afternoon or introduce a beginner to multi-pitch climbing. Apr 3, 2016

Evan Wisheropp

[Hide Comment] The climb is one star, but the rappel is four stars. Often you end up clipping a bolt as you are just walking up the slab, perhaps a great route to practice simuling. The rap is amazing! Apr 11, 2016

Adam Lendi Denver, CO   5.4

[Hide Comment] Photosphere of Looking Glass Rappel goo.gl/photos/cJNev1Snw4mBR… This was a really great climb for my girlfriend, a newer climber, and I to build her confidence and teach her about multi-pitch and lead belaying. The climb was easy, yet very rewarding once you got to the rappel and the rope swing. I stopped half way down the rappel to shoot the above interactive photosphere. Enjoy! Finally, if Rick or Alex who rapped and swang with us on 4/18/16 catch this post, please PM me so I can get your email. I'll share my pictures and hopefully can get yours back. Apr 20, 2016

Kyle Goupil Salt Lake City   5.2

[Hide Comment] Great route to take beginners on. I rapped from the lower anchors in the notch and made it to the ground with a 70m sterling like some others have commented on doing. Having 2 60m ropes would allow you to rappel from the higher anchor though. May 8, 2016

Will Bradford Winston-Salem, North Carolina

[Hide Comment] I would call this climb a 5.2 to 5.3… I am a very cautious climber and I would almost say this is not worth roping up for, save for a few smears on P2 that might bump it out of fourth class. P1 and P2 can be easily linked with a 60 if you belay from the platform, as many comments suggest doing. Be careful if you choose to do the rope swing- we suffered sheath damage that went down to the core of the rope where the double fisherman's apparently got caught between the anchor and rock (best we can figure…) May 13, 2016

Daniel H Bryant Colorado Springs, CO

[Hide Comment] Climbed 7/6/16 around 11am, hot but no snakes found, either way be careful. There are 3 bolts in the 'window' and an empty hole, and there are 3 bolts above the 'window', but only 1 of those had a rap ring and the bolts are protruding 1/2 inch above the hangers (so we just walked down the ramp into the 'window'). All of the bolts felt solid. I took 2 ropes for the rappel, but you can get by with a single 70m, so it is more like a 115' rappel. It is worth the climb just for the rappel. Jul 8, 2016

John Peterson

[Hide Comment] Whoever chiseled a foothold on the crux slab move has made this route completely trivial. Industrial tourism at work! Oct 15, 2016

Derek Smalls

[Hide Comment] Attempted Looking Glass on May 3. Saw about seven rattle snakes at the base of the route. One was literally on first step of the route. There is a harder, crumbly, and sketchy unprotected alternative start to the right around the toe. There were also snakes on that side, though. We opted to leave the snakes alone and headed back to Moab. May 9, 2017

Karissa Colorado Boulder, CO 5.3 R

[Hide Comment] Fun solo, climbing is no harder than 5.3 at most. Bolts are spaced out but the climbing is straightforward. Good for taking less experienced partners up on rope. Rappel makes this worth it. Aug 5, 2017

Gerrit VanderLugt Chattanooga, TN   5.4

[Hide Comment] The climbing is super easy. It'd be perfect for a first multi-pitch or lead. It's a little tricky getting down to the rappel station and actually starting the rappel. There were WAY more bolts than I was anticipating given the protection rating and what the guide books say. I didn't feel run out at all. The climb isn't that fun, but the rappel and swing are some of the funnest things I've done in Moab. Oct 19, 2017

Alex Zucca Salt Lake City, UT

[Hide Comment] Bring around 15 draws and you can simul-climb the entire route. Only 1 section was harder than scrambling, a sandy featureless slab. I would call it 5.7 Oct 23, 2017

Sarah Schlaefke Salt Lake City, UT

[Hide Comment] The anchors you can use to not-sketchily rap to the Looking Glass swing anchors are just bare bolts. Either be prepared to do the Texas Rope Trick (with a sling and extra locker) or bring quick links to leave and make this a better place! Oct 27, 2017

Derek Wehrle

[Hide Comment] As said above, one of the best experiences I've had in moab, because of the rap and swing. Climb was nothing to stand out but it was great to see my friends, first time outdoor climbers, succeed, wearing tennis shoes. I counted 3 bolts between each belay. Easy but very sandy with 1 small featureless slab that was spooky. The small scoot down to the rap anchors can be belayed from bolts above, if you wish. Kinda exposed for new climbers. We saw zero snakes on 10/30/17. We swung by jumping from the obvious bird poop ledges. Oct 30, 2017

Garrett Carter SL, UT   5.4

[Hide Comment] How does this have a PG13 rating? Multiple bolts on low angle slab, nothing run out, and bolted belay stations. It seems more bolts have been added between the stations since the original publishing. At the top you can walk around down low angle slab and do the repel to the ground. A single 70m dynamic rope hit the bottom just fine. Great repel and even better swing. This is a very popular area. Please climb it, do the repel, swing, and then pull your rope. On 11/4 we followed a party of two who climbed and set the repel, then called their friends whose car pulled up and several families worth of people then proceeded to do the rope swing. We waited patiently at the top, but after the party below us was beginning to send their party on the swing a second time, we had to yell down. Please be conscientious of others who also want to enjoy this amazing repel. I didn't think this would need to be stated, but apparently so. We used a 70M dynamic rope and it got us down just barely. We were able to swing using this same rope and did not come anywhere close to hitting the ground with the stretch. Nov 5, 2017

Emily Evans

[Hide Comment] Super fun rappel and swing. As several others said, definitely a great place to get new climbers introduced to climbing outdoors. Though it's easy climbing, it's quite exposed and can get very windy, so tying in is advised. As mentioned below, it's a popular area. We've found that sharing a rope with another group for the rap and swing is a great way to get everyone down and swinging in a timely manner. Sometimes groups include non-climbers (who are equally entitled to swing time as climbers, right?), so it's a good idea to try to communicate with other groups early on. If you want a climb/rappel/swing all to yourself, then this probably isn't the place for you. If you want to be the first group on the rock, then expect to get an early start. Hardware update: We added a quick link to one of the bolts (11/4) so that you can rappel into the window without any sketchy maneuvering. Nov 12, 2017

justino

[Hide Comment] Sorry Emily to disagree with you, but no! If folks are trying to rap off the anchors it is rude to clog up the only descent option with “swingers”. Sharing is caring... Nov 13, 2017

Jim Fox Westminster, CO   5.4 PG13

[Hide Comment] Just climbed this. Really fun, easy ascent. Rap is very cool. There were 3 bolts on 3rd pitch, which is weird because I pretty much just walked up that pitch with no hands. Falling would be unlikely anywhere on this route but it would be an ugly slide/tumble if you did because the bolts are few and far between. No snakes this time. Last time we went, there was a big gopher snake and possibly some rattlers (they were back in the crevasses but we could see and hear them). A few other people climbing but not really busy. Really cool setting and the rap, with or without the swing, is a lot of fun. Mar 27, 2018

mtbmt -

[Hide Comment] The climb is located eastern rib ( 38°16'30.37"N 109°24'11.85"W). Extremely fun, and easy climb. Just as stated, 3 pitches to the summit, and accurate information. All solid bolts with the exception of the second bolt on the second pitch is slightly loose but unfortunately didn't have the equipment to fix. Just bolts on third pitch anchors, no chains or rings. A 60m rope runout on a double rap on the third pitch, but it's walkable to pitch 2 anchors --make sure you close the system. Climbed on 06-22-2018. Didn't see any rattlers on this climb --though their holes are everywhere. Jun 26, 2018

Spencer Weiler Grand Junction   Easy 5th

[Hide Comment] Soloed it in chacos in 5 minutes. Don't expect any climbing on this route. Aug 8, 2018

James Garrett Salt Lake City, UT

[Hide Comment] So why did you bother? Did you down solo the rappel in Chacos, too:) I love this climb, why bother dissing it?... it was put up by a Guide for his clients, apparently not for climbers as good as you. Sorry, just the facts. Aug 12, 2018

Kyle Lewis St. Louis, MO   5.6 PG13

[Hide Comment] Any good reason I shouldn't do this with a single 60m rope and make the rap with a biner block and pull cord? Mar 13, 2019

Ryan Callahan Albuquerque, NM

[Hide Comment] Man last time I was here I ran up this thing with my buddy and my fiance to make sure it would be safe to bring some friends who were noobs, and then proceeded to get to the rappel where somebody had set up a rope for the rope swing. We talked to the guys (couple of younger folks, maybe 16-18, nice guys) and decided to rap on their rope since it was already there. After we got to the bottom (super awesome rap) we roped up the noobs and started going up, with myself leading one group of 3 and my buddy the other. We got ahead of them and pretty soon we start seeing EMS vehicles approaching from the distance. Once we get to the top my buddy finally comes up and is kind of freaking out. He tells me that somebody had yelled up at them "somebody fell!" and thought that they meant one of my party, but we were all fine. Turns out one of the kids on the rope we had rapped off of started lowering his friend while he was tied in to get to the rope swing, and dropped him the last 50-60 feet of the free-rappel. Dude man decked hard and had to be carried out on a stretcher, seems like he had a number of broken bones. Was pretty surreal to watch this proceed through the eye hole on the top, cause we were waiting for him to get carried out before we started rapping down. That rappel seemed to be much scarier than the first time lol. Later when we get down I was talking to some onlookers and apparently his partner froze up while he was pulling the lever on his grigri and just completely lobbed his friend. Aaaaand that's (part of) the reason I still prefer an ATC to this day! 8/10 route, awesome scenery and rap, just dont let your buddy lower you on a grigri! Apr 26, 2019

Zach Greene Colorado Springs CO

[Hide Comment] This arch is a CLASSIC! We went on a sunday morning and it was very quite, ran into three other groups while we were there. The climb is very easy and if you and your belayer are efficient you can fly up this route. The bolt hangers on a lot of bolts are loose, but all the anchors are bomber. There are multiple sets of anchors spread around the top of the arch, I'm guessing for different rappels. We used the anchors in the slot to rappel down and into the arch. One 70m rope will reach the bottom with rope stretch. But it has to be a dynamic rope not static. Static 70m will not reach. Keep the rope up for an amazing swing! Jun 13, 2019

Travis Timm Austin, tx

[Hide Comment] Super fun, super easy, pit stop on the way into Moab. Lots of bolts up top, but I am fairly confident the "true" rap station is the only one with chains 15 ft down from the top. It took my wife and I a bit of wondering around before we found them, but once we did we actually rapped down to them from another station to avoid an easy, but sketchy, scramble. For those wondering, the swing is done from a ledge covered in bird poop; rappel down from the main rap station up top, get on belay, scramble to bird poop ledge, take up rope, and jump off. Oct 7, 2019

Devon Powell Bend, OR

[Hide Comment] climbed may 2019 - did not see snakes, used 70m rope to reach the ground. Oct 8, 2019

Ted Pinson Chicago, IL

[Hide Comment] I wouldn’t rate this any higher than 5.4, and it’s way better bolted than the description implies. Totally doable for new climbers...you’ll have bolts whenever you need them and you really don’t. I wouldn’t even call it PG-13. Dec 10, 2019

Devon Hastings Merrimack, NH   5.4

[Hide Comment] Did this route recently. Found no rattlesnakes in the holes at the base of the climb. The second pitch has many more bolts. If I remember correctly I used 5 draws (so 5 bolts). The first and last pitch had 3 bolts as well. For those who are a little spooked by the start, there is a bolt once you get to a good stance after following the dihedral to a small ledge. You can't quite reach the bolt until you stand up a bit, but that was the only part that spooked me and I'm a bitch when it comes to runout. Aug 16, 2020

Gabe Linderman

[Hide Comment] Absolutely awesome. Super easy true 5.4 climbing at its hardest and far easier most places. Well protected with a bunch more bolts than the description says. I think p2 was 6-7 bolts. The rap is awesome and a 70m just barely gets you down, tie your knots. Would be a great place to take beginners who want a spooky rap but also a fun place for climbers of all abilities. Sep 23, 2020

Christian Davis Talkeetna, AK

[Hide Comment] Since this route and the rap anchors see so much traffic, does anyone know who does the upkeep on this route? Rap anchors especially?? Oct 1, 2020

David Dentry Morrison, CO

[Hide Comment] Two super easy pitches with a 70m rope (which you need for the rap). A few short sections (less than 10 feet each) of smooth, pure slab climbing but the rest is not more than an easy walk. After rapping down one person puts the other on belay and belayer walks down towards the bottom of the arch. The "climber" ties in and walks up to a high ledge (with lots of bird poop). Belayer pulls in all of the slack and the climber jumps off for a nice swing! Dec 20, 2020

Adam Fleming AMGA Certified Rock Guide; SLC Easy 5th

[Hide Comment] In response to Christian's comment asking about upkeep: Joe Stern put the most recent set of chains and rings on the route (p1 and rappel). He puts up a good amount of FAs around Moab/Indian Creek along with replacing hardware and bolts on existing routes. Feb 23, 2021

Samuel Parker Stockton, CA   5.5

[Hide Comment] A 70 meter worked perfectly from the window. 80 meter works from the chains above. We were guiding a group of less experienced climbers/rappellers and having 2 raps sped things up by a lot. If you're a regular climber above 5.6/7 it's a cakewalk to the top. Ended up having our group simul-climb to speed things up. Mar 3, 2021

Brian Gray San Tan Valley, AZ

[Hide Comment] Any advice on setting up the rope swing? Mar 18, 2021

Christopher Czaplicki Coarsegold, CA

[Hide Comment] Super fun outing, one of the most intense rappels I've ever done! The rappel chains are off a detached pinnacle down from the three bolt anchor. Complete TR: TheMtsAreCalling.com/lookin… Mar 26, 2021

Alex C Fayetteville, NC

[Hide Comment] PLEASE READ IF ROPE SWINGING Please wear a helmet! Do not forget about your rope stretching! Push as far to the right (when looking up at the ledge) as possible, and do not jump into the swing. Just sit down into it. We did not do these things and it resulted in a trip to the ER for a severe concussion. Could have been far more serious if the swinger wasn't wearing a helmet. I already commented this on the location page, but am reposting it for visibility. Apr 25, 2021

Jonathon Nichols Salt Lake City, UT

[Hide Comment] Hey all, this area is under threat from a developer who wants to put in a 200 acre glamping facility with tents that go for upwards of $450/night. From what I can tell their proposed sight would directly impact the climb and rappel area and could limit access, but overall would be a definite damper on the area and ruin some amazing views. Please check out the website below and sign the petition, write your reps, etc. savelookingglass.com/ Jun 25, 2021

Diego Velasquez Moab, UT

[Hide Comment] If you've climbed Freeway on the second Flatiron, go do this scramble - fun little solo that tapers off the higher you go. Crux moves off the ground. Approach shoes just fine. Sep 8, 2021

David Dentry Morrison, CO

[Hide Comment] Pull in the slack! When swinging the belayer must pull all of the slack in for the first swing, if not the swinger will likely drop down and hit the rocks or swing back too far and hit their ankles. I've seen it happen... You can let out a little slack for subsequent jumps once you get the hang of it, but PLEASE take all of the slack in for the first jump. Oct 31, 2021

RodrigoB

[Hide Comment] This "climb" is a perfect example of why etiquette matters regardless of what Emily seems to think. In a recent experience, multiple groups that include individuals that hadn't climbed wanted to swing. These groups collectively jammed up the rappel for multiple hours while refusing to allow any others to simply rappel. We ended up downclimbing the route given the lack of rings etc on the other anchors. Based on the poor belaying technique and improper wearing of harnesses it was pretty clear these groups were new to the sport. That's fine, but is not an excuse for poor etiquette, immature backtalk, and for violating the "don't be an asshole" rule. If you are looking to avoid a circus start really early or skip this altogether. There's certainly nothing memorable about the climb itself. If you still want the free-hanging rappel experience there are plenty of other options around. Nov 28, 2021

Mark Thomas Broomfield, CO   4th

[Hide Comment] You can easily link the last 2 pitches with an 80m rope, but seriously, with the amount of chopped out footholds and excessive number of bolts, regardless of the rope length, if you lead at 5.7 or higher, just simul this if you're not soloing it. ~8 draws is fine for the entire route in that way. Frankly, this is easier than the cl. 4 route on Lembert Dome in Tuolumne & that route has no bolts. Come here for the views, rapp & swing, NOT for the climbing. Also, yes, a 70m or longer works for the rapp. Oil drilling beyond has improved the shorter approach road, so as of 2022, consider it pretty beefed up. For the 'farther' approach road, DON'T walk around the formation! Walk through the arch and amphitheater through what you are about to rapp as you approach the climb. THIS IS THE DESERT. BE PREPARED!!!! Due to the serious nature of either approach, be sure to consume plenty of liquids. If coming from the longer approach, I recommend AT LEAST 1 six pack of beer. Apr 23, 2022

skelldify

[Hide Comment] Is this climb really 400’ tall? Apr 27, 2022

slim   5.4 PG13

[Hide Comment] the length of the climbing might be 400 feet(?), but the actual height is quite a bit less. Apr 28, 2022

Ryan Ray

[Hide Comment] I noticed several comments about the chopped steps on this route. Those chopped steps were actually carved by the ancient people (Anasazi) who lived in the area. Just about every one of the rounded domes in the area have a set of chopped steps leading to the summit. So keep in mind as you are climbing this route with a rope and clipping the bolts. The ancients climbed this sometime between about 800 ad to 1200 ad. This route follows an ancient indigenous stairway. The climbers are actually destroying the archeological history of this dome. The rope grooves and destruction on the archeological site are sad to see. Apr 30, 2022

Michelle Leber Moab, UT

[Hide Comment] With all due respect Ryan Ray, the chopped steps are chopped steps, not an ancient Anasazi ladder. I am not the only person on this forum who can confirm that the route did not have chopped steps about 5 years ago. I suggest you remove your comment and photo as your information is incorrect. May 1, 2022

Ryan Ray

[Hide Comment] I stand corrected. It’s absolutely pathetic that modern climbers are carving steps into a route. I edited my description! May 2, 2022

Richard Pattison

[Hide Comment] Think I've climbed the rock 4 times now. I made a 3-minute movie of the climb and rappel here: youtu.be/V4X2aj3NzFg Aug 3, 2022

Wyatt Metayer

[Hide Comment] Great environment to climb in, good place to introduce someone to the logistics of multipitch, though the actual climbing isn't exactly a thrill after the first 3-5 moves. If you avoid the cut steps on I think pitch 2 and go straight up the blank slab it's a little more exciting, but doesn't merit the 5.7 I've seen in a couple places. 5.4 seems fair to me. The rappel is incredible though, and totally worth it even if this were a staircase. Oct 13, 2022

Mark D Lakewood, CO

[Hide Comment] No rattlesnakes anywhere to be seen. Lots of fun to be had here. Jun 5, 2023

Jake Palmer Moab, UT

[Hide Comment] Good morning, Desert Highlights guide service is updating the belay stations on Looking Glass Rock today. (2/29) Please stay off until Saturday (3/3) to ensure the glue has enough time to dry. Thank you ! Feb 29, 2024

Corey T

[Hide Comment] Did this today. Fun times all around. Climb was easy but fun. Rappel was scary. Swing was exhilarating! No snakes to be seen. I left a quick link on the bolt above the walk down to the rappel anchors. Some people just scooted down but it felt a little scary so we belayed/lowered each other down through the quick link. There was a line all day pretty much (Wednesday afternoon), get here early! We free solo'd the first pitch. 2nd pitch we roped up. Third pitch you could definitely free solo as well, or combine pitch 2 and 3 for one long pitch. Also we looked around but couldn't find any summit register. Definitely a must do! Apr 3, 2024