Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

The Fake-P

5.7, Trad, 90 ft (27 m),  Avg: 2.5 from 14 votes
FA: unknown
New Mexico > Taos Area > Tres Piedras > Beastie Alley
Warning Access Issue: Some rocks in this area are on private property. Seasonal Raptor Nesting. DetailsDrop down

Description

A 2-bolt anchor with chains appeared several years ago on this low buttress. The bulging face directly below the bolts appears to be unprotectable for quite a ways up. However, an easy crack approaches the bolts from pretty far to the left, and it's a pretty good beginner lead. Once the rope is hung from the chains, though, it's kind of hard to rap back down the crack because it's so far off the plumb line. Instead, the 5.8 face directly below can be toproped, although this is also kind of a PITA because the bolts are so far back behind the bulge that you end up with a bit of rope drag, and the oak trees at the base are in the way.
[Edit 2016] I once thought that this crack was 'The Rusty-P', as described in the old "Tao's Rock II" guide (1984). The location and description seemed to match, but I was perplexed by the absence of a piton. Since then, we found the piton off to the left, clearly not on this route. Hence, I renamed this route here on MP with the vaguely "P" related name. If any actual FA info shows up, let me know and I'll amend this page.

Location

Located on the low southwestern buttress of Mosaic Rock, between Independence Gully to the right, and Beastie Alley to the left.

Protection

To lead the crack on the left, a single rack of cams and nuts suffice.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Route climbs up crack to skyline then up another 20' to bolt anchors.
[Hide Photo] Route climbs up crack to skyline then up another 20' to bolt anchors.
The Fake-P (5.7), Mosaic Rock, Tres Piedras, NM.
[Hide Photo] The Fake-P (5.7), Mosaic Rock, Tres Piedras, NM.
Leading The Fake-P
[Hide Photo] Leading The Fake-P
Exploring the face on top rope after leading The Fake-P
[Hide Photo] Exploring the face on top rope after leading The Fake-P

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] Seemed easier than other 5.7s at TP. Several TR variations of varying grades are possible below the anchors, though oak branches do get in the way a bit. But we didn't find the rope drag to be too bad. Aug 28, 2010
[Hide Comment] Dan Greenwald and Scott Resnick led the face between the "Tope rope 5.8" label and the crack (which they also led) I think they called the route Skeleton Key 5.10 PG. It is a fun climb with tricky but sufficient pro. Apr 22, 2020
B Little
Albuquerque
[Hide Comment] As noted, this is a pretty good beginner lead. However if you're a true beginner, the runout to the anchor could be scary. It's ~20 ft of easy slab after the crack disappears. Aug 27, 2023
[Hide Comment] Once the route leaves the big right-leaning crack it goes left up the slabs to the anchors. There are smaller cracks in the slabs that have some nice possibilities for good nut placements. Doesn't have to be runout. Oct 17, 2023
B Little
Albuquerque
[Hide Comment] @Michelle I agree there are opportunities for pro after the crack ends, though they may not be obvious, but the anchor is definitely right (not left) Jul 6, 2024