Avg: 2 from 3 votes
Routes in Mechanical Man
|Antifreeze T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Auto Repair T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13|
|Bending Nails T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R|
|Emissions Testing T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c|
|Finish Carpenter T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c|
|Fluid Mechanics T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13|
|Handy Man T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c|
|Little Narrows T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Mr. Goodwrench S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Tooth, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b|
|Type:||Sport, 65 ft|
|FA:||B. Gillett, 2006|
|Page Views:||48 total, 1/month|
|Shared By:||Tony B on Aug 16, 2010|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionA good route on great rock with bad lichen. It needs a good clean brushing! This route merits 2 stars as is and has potential for 3 if it gets cleaned up. The climb is even better if finished via Auto Repair in a single 140' pitch. Auto Repair is already clean....
From the single bolt belay stance (backed up by gear), reach up and left out of a corner to clip an bolt then move over to a jug (hard for short people). Mantle the jug (balancy) then clip another bolt before moving up onto the slab (crux) and following a line of bolts to a ledge with an anchor- your starting point. All of the hard climbing is on clean rock, but the upper slab was not brushed down other than the few necessary holds. Cleaning this would produce a nicer climb.
Belay at the anchor, or continue ON GEAR (include a few fist+ sized pieces if you are squeamish) on Auto Repair (5.7+).
LocationTo reach this line, start on the 'starting ledge' as arrived from the approach trail. Look East and tunnel through the formation behind a huge boulder, arriving 30' East at a 2-bolt rap station. Rap down 65' to a ledge with a single bolt belay station that can be backed up by gear. You will pass a licheny face with 5 bolts on the way down- giving you perfect opportunity to scrape or brush the climb... which it needs.
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