Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

Schist for Brains

5.9, Sport, 110 ft (33 m),  Avg: 3.2 from 16 votes
FA: Dave Rone, Jim Slichter August, 2010
S Dakota > Needles Of Rush… > Mt Rushmore Nat… > Magna Carta > Marker > Schist Head
Warning Access Issue: Check NPS for Closures DetailsDrop down

Description

Climb the big flake up to and through the schist (the intent of the route is to not stem to the left). Work right onto the nose of the ridge, then follow the bolts to the top. After the 9th bolt, you will come to a block perched on the top of the ridge. It is quite stable but avoid using it. You can easily get by it without using it. Climb up to the left, and over the notch to the anchors.

Location

Starts up the big flake on the left side.

Protection

11 bolts. Rappel anchor on top. Single 60m rope gets you down, barely. Check your ends!

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Gabbie halfway up
[Hide Photo] Gabbie halfway up
Line of route, with block to be avoided indicated by red arrow.
[Hide Photo] Line of route, with block to be avoided indicated by red arrow.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Kirtis Courkamp
Golden
 
[Hide Comment] Climbed this route again today this route is a blast. Seriously this route has some of the coolest 5.9 climbing in the area. Also the route is south facing so it gets some sun a rarity for cold climbing in the maker / monster area. Mar 23, 2015
Adam Pequette
Rapid City, SD
  5.9
[Hide Comment] Nice route. The right bolt of the rappel anchor is loose and wobbles. The left is still in great shape. The rappel is still safe as of 10/4/20. Oct 4, 2020