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Routes in Stump Buttress

Crow's Nest, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Daddy Duty T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Marmot Eater T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b C2-
Nescafé Sandwich T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Northwest Face T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Type: Trad, 275 ft, 3 pitches
FA: P1: Brown, Scully '08. P2/P3: unknown, previously climbed
Page Views: 236 total, 3/month
Shared By: Dustin B on Aug 13, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Face and crack climbing on the Stump Buttress.

P1.Start at twin curving cracks and climb them up to a couple bolts on the face. End on a ledge with 2 belay bolts. 5.10-, 2 stars. The first pitch is somewhat clean, while the rest of the climb is best left undone. The original intention was to push another mixed pitch up the face up and left from the first belay, but was abandoned due to the amount of cleaning and bolts that would be required. For anyone interested that climbs at about 10+ or so, depending on path taken.

P2. Pitch 2 follows the rotten weakness above the belay to the big ledge. 5.8, stinkbomb.

P3. Pitch 3 climbs either a 5.8 corner on the left or a 9+ crack on the right to the top of the formation.

Location

On the far left side of the west face, just before turning the corner into Wall Mart. Route climbs twin curving cracks to the right of a pedestal. Hike down or rap The Crow's Nest.

Protection

Small cams, RPs/stoppers and a few bolts for the first pitch. Standard rack for the rest.

Photos

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Dr. Dan
Steamboat Springs, CO
Dr. Dan   Steamboat Springs, CO
Climbed uncharted route directly up west face around 2000. Pins, cams and nuts. Upper 2/3 took off huge loose blocks. A bit runout, but real danger was loose rock. Wouldn't go back, but an industrious, ambitious cleaner could make it a worthwhile addition. Jul 22, 2017