Avg: 4 from 2 votes
|Type:||Sport, 170 ft, 3 pitches|
|Page Views:||824 total, 9/month|
|Shared By:||Alec Ferguson on Aug 13, 2010|
DescriptionAn absolutely stellar route. Climbs a steep, colorful wall with every type of move you could ever want: jamming, chimney, thin face, and walking on air. Named for the valley which local climbers dream of visiting.
p1: 5.8. Climb the line of bolts on the buttress to the ledge with a bolt anchor. Balancy.
p2: 5.11c. Climb the thin crack straight up from the anchor, using every type of move you know. Continue through a squeeze chimney to a ledge in an alcove under the big roof. Bolt anchor.
p3: 5.10c. Climb out the roof by stemming in the chimney. At the end of the roof go up. Continue to a two-bolt anchor below the ledge. Do not climb to the ledge because the anchor at the ledge has been removed.
For descent, you have to options, the first being recommended:
1) Rappel from the anchor with two ropes all the way to the ground.
2) Climb past the anchor on pitch 3 and top out. There are trees to belay from. A #3 Camalot would be useful to protect the last bit.
From the top, a faint trail leads right (East) toward the waterfall. Be VERY careful not to knock rocks down. Go up through some bamboo, then descend to the top of the waterfall. Cross the creek, and follow the obvious trail back down.
LocationThe first pitch is on the buttress left of the waterfall. You can see the belay anchor on a ledge. The second pitch runs up the chimney, and the third runs under the huge roof near the top of the wall.
Route name in Korean: 요세미티
ProtectionThis route is all bolt-protected, but it feels more like a trad route. You need to know multipitch techniques, as well as jamming and chimneying.
The route requires 17 quickdraws, but a combination of slings and draws would be better. Rappelling requires 2 ropes: I think 50 meter would work, but use a 60 meter to be sure.
If you want to top out, a #3 camalot will make you feel safer.
Most bolts look shiny and don't spin. We removed the anchor at the very top because the rock it was placed in is detached.