Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Greg Olsen, Bryan Trott, Jon Nelson
Page Views: 1,620 total · 15/month
Shared By: Colin Bartholomew on Aug 12, 2010
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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32 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure: Upper Cheeks Details

Description

A decent start leads to a bolt with sweet underclings through the reachy roof. Easier but still thin climbing leads past another bolt and some gear placements to another bolt and a traverse left and then back right to the anchors.

Location

Great north slab. Between Terminal Preppy and Roger's Corner.

Protection

a few QD. Thin gear to green alien. A number 3 camalot was helpful. Also .75 is supposed to be good but I personally didn't need it.

Photos

Eric8
Maynard, MA
  5.10c
Eric8   Maynard, MA
  5.10c
4 stars seriously? Aug 13, 2010
Colin Bartholomew
WASHINGTON
  5.10c
Colin Bartholomew   WASHINGTON
  5.10c
So you hate life, no? Aug 15, 2010
Eric8
Maynard, MA
  5.10c
Eric8   Maynard, MA
  5.10c
no, just don't like crumbly rock and poor dynamic 1 move wonders. Of all the 5.11 routes I have done at index this is EASILY the worst one. Terminal preppie just to the left for example has no crumby rock and excellent movement. That is a four star route.... Aug 16, 2010
Mark Straub
Berkeley, CA
  5.10c
Mark Straub   Berkeley, CA
  5.10c
I think this route is great. Bomb rating, really? It's a fun slab route with some cool moves, not really a one-move wonder. Jun 5, 2011
damonachey Achey
Colorado Springs, CO
damonachey Achey   Colorado Springs, CO
I think this may be a little soft for the grade comparing it to other index routes in this range Jul 4, 2011
jdberndt
Seattle, WA
  5.10c
jdberndt   Seattle, WA
  5.10c
I think it's a good pitch. Not sustained but definitely not a gimme. Hardware recently updated by Gabe and Doug. Definitely safe where it needs to be. It deserves some traffic and might clean up a bit in the flaky upper slab. Aug 7, 2011
I'd be happy if folks gave it a consensus 2.5 star rating. The moves and position might give it a 4 star rating, but the rock quality in the easiest section bumps it down. I wouldn't go out of my way to climb it, but it's a good warm-up/transition climb between Rogers Corner and Terminal Preppie.

After having folks from >6ft and <5'8", we gave it a 5.10d grade. It's easier for taller people and harder for shorter people and the 10d seemed to be an average. If one feels 5.10c is the grade they would tell their friends, I would not consider it sandbagged.

As a fun side note, and purely my opinion here, I recently climbed in Joshua Tree on 3 climbs: Gem, Colorado Crack and Spiderman. All 3 had similar sections of poor rock as "Strength" but the climbs have high ratings/recommendations. My conclusion, Index is better than J-Tree… but dont tell anybody ;-)

Watch the video if you want to see how I did the cruxes.

youtube.com/watch?v=EQ50P-7… Mar 30, 2013
geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
  5.10d
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
  5.10d
I am one of those fools that likes this route, and have climbed it a few times, and have come to the conclusion that the bolt that protects the first crux roof move is in the wrong place, it should be on the left side, it forces the rope across your body and if you fall, you will be tangled up or flipped upside down, I am tall and stick this move but it is awkward as is. I would move the bolt over to the left. May 17, 2016
Jon Nelson
Redmond, WA
 
Jon Nelson   Redmond, WA  
 
You have my permission to move the bolt.

We didn't always think very hard about the best bolt placement back then. Perhaps it was placed on lead, I don't remember anything about it, unfortunately. May 17, 2016
geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
  5.10d
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
  5.10d
yeah, I could see it being placed on lead, a good stance to drill there. The Clint book mentions the anchor being stolen. I can't remember what was there before someone added the new sport anchor. Did it always end that way, or did it go off left? I will think about it some more before moving the bolt, but thanks for your impute. May 18, 2016
Geoff and Jon,

Gabe and I placed the bolts where we did more because the rock wasn’t solid or of bolt-placing-quality where we actually DID want to place the bolts. We did lots of tapping with the hammer to hear where rock was solid.

We believed the original route went up the Terminal Preppie line and figured a more fun finish was to climb the Guillotine Block. Glad you like it. May 22, 2016
Jon Nelson
Redmond, WA
 
Jon Nelson   Redmond, WA  
 
Thanks for the explanation Doug.

I think that the original finishing anchor was just a sling on the left end of the large block. It did not finish with the last part of Terminal P-. May 23, 2016