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Routes in Indian Head Cliff on Mt. Pemigewasset

Amphitheater T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Broken Down Palace T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Chimney Blocks T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Layback Chimney T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Red Power? variation Corner Arete T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Smashed T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Steve Larson and Andy Tuthill, 1982 (variation Bradley White and Chris Buckley, 1983?)
Page Views: 107 total, 1/month
Shared By: bradley white on Aug 12, 2010
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Description

Longest climb on cliff. Climb bucket face holds up to old bolt at bulge (crux) to corner overhang old pin (crux). Mantle around overhang right and climb left facing narrow width corner. I placed a pin at the start to corner. The finish variation to Red Power enters the corner midway up and continues until breaks in rock 80ft. Then take arch back to weak flakes (5.8) to surmount final wall for a total pitch of 150ft. to the summit or do it in two belays.

Location

Large steep ramp with bulges. Left of it are birch trees on a ledge and right of it is dirty cliff.

Protection

trad. rack maybe some blade pins.

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