Great Chimney
5.5 PG13,
Trad, 265 ft (80 m), 2 pitches,
Avg: 1 from 8
votes
FA: Mark Carpenter, Tal Bielefeldt 1965
W Virginia
> Seneca Rocks
> Southern Pillar
> Southern Pillar - E Side
Description
Great as in "large," not as in "fantastic."
This route is listed largely for historical completeness, as it does not (and perhaps should not) get climbed much, other than as easy access to the better climbs adjacent to it.
Both current guidebooks list this route as 5.1, although today's consensus is that it is at least a 5.5 PG/PG13. This is not a suitable beginner's route: it's a dirty, chossy adventure route. Be warned, and be ready to retreat if you get in over your head.
P1: Begin by climbing / scrambling up a loose, dirty gulley filled with blocky bulges, dirty ledges, and loose scrambles. There is pro on either side wall, and there are some trees along the way to sling. Continue up to a tree with some in-situ slings on it. OPTIONAL BELAY.
The climbing isn't great for the first half of the first pitch, but if it's chimney moves you seek, the second half of the first pitch will not disappoint. Continuing up, move up a dirt slope passing two more good sized trees and gain the main chimney below a large boulder stuck above you in the chimney. Pass under the boulder and continue up using cracks in the back wall and chimney moves. Work your way up through the blocky upper portion to a large ledge on the left. Around the corner is Mrs. Robinson and a host of other decent climbs.
P2: Continue up through the blocky gully to the top. The 2nd pitch gets a bit more overgrown but just a short ways up the pitch are two good climbs on the right wall: Craving For Pink and Hidden Gem.
If you continue straight up P2, be prepared for a very organic experience.
Special Thanks to Andy Weinmann for encouraging a better route description, a warning on the grade, and for calling out the route as not-beginner-safe. (See discussion below.)
Location
Begin below the large gulley / chimney that splits the formation in the WEST and EAST buttresses.
Protection
Double ropes recommended to guard against rope drag in the gulley. Pro on both sides of the gulley and chimney. Bring some long slings for trees.
Campton, NH/Warmington, UK
[previous comments edited as Pete incorporated them in his description]
Updated...See below post for info on the descent.
Thanks to Pete for adding this route. There are some great climbs on this side of the Southern Pillar that sadly no one visits much...to their detriment! Oct 7, 2013
Pittsburgh, PA
Rumney, NH
[ inflammatory stuff edited out ]
When I climbed the route, the old guide listed it at 5.1. The new guide also lists it at 5.1. That doesn't make it suitable for a newb. The very best way to suggest an upgrade is to use the consensus rating on MP.
As the original poster of the route -- but not as the FA or guidebook author -- I felt it was important to honor the judgement of Carpenter, Bielefeldt, and Barnes.
Regardless of grade, there are no beginner routes at Seneca. Always go with someone experienced. Apr 22, 2014
Campton, NH/Warmington, UK
Regarding newbs climbing here, they do. That's not going to change. And they read MP entries on the climbs. There are only a handful of easier climbs at Seneca for beginning leaders. Hopefully they're climbing under the tutelage of an experienced leader who will direct them away from sandbagged adventure routes.
In my opinion, Mountain Project exists to give people more beta on climbs than what a guidebook says. I don't think you're dishonoring the judgement of guys who climbed in 1965 by rating it what it is by today's standards or at least something closer to that. However, I understand the dilemma. The way I've tried to reconcile this is to put the guidebook grade in the entry and then state up front in my description what I think the grade really is.
Apologies for any offensive comments...text edited. May 5, 2014
Rumney, NH
In any case, I left the mid-atlantic long ago, so I'm not familiar with where the noobs go these days. How about we edit the description to be a combination of my description and yours?
[ EDITED TO ADD ] I updated the description with your comments, bumped up the grade, and gave you credit in the description. If you'd like me to ping an admin to make you the route owner, lemme know. May 6, 2014
Campton, NH/Warmington, UK
Pittsburgh, PA