Type: Trad, 265 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Mark Carpenter, Tal Bielefeldt 1965
Page Views: 1,090 total · 10/month
Shared By: Peter Jackson on Aug 11, 2010
Admins: Ladd Raine, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

You & This Route


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Description

Great as in "large," not as in "fantastic."

This route is listed largely for historical completeness, as it does not (and perhaps should not) get climbed much, other than as easy access to the better climbs adjacent to it.

Both current guidebooks list this route as 5.1, although today's consensus is that it is at least a 5.5 PG/PG13. This is not a suitable beginner's route: it's a dirty, chossy adventure route. Be warned, and be ready to retreat if you get in over your head.

P1: Begin by climbing / scrambling up a loose, dirty gulley filled with blocky bulges, dirty ledges, and loose scrambles. There is pro on either side wall, and there are some trees along the way to sling. Continue up to a tree with some in-situ slings on it. OPTIONAL BELAY.

The climbing isn't great for the first half of the first pitch, but if it's chimney moves you seek, the second half of the first pitch will not disappoint. Continuing up, move up a dirt slope passing two more good sized trees and gain the main chimney below a large boulder stuck above you in the chimney. Pass under the boulder and continue up using cracks in the back wall and chimney moves. Work your way up through the blocky upper portion to a large ledge on the left. Around the corner is Mrs. Robinson and a host of other decent climbs.

P2: Continue up through the blocky gully to the top. The 2nd pitch gets a bit more overgrown but just a short ways up the pitch are two good climbs on the right wall: Craving For Pink and Hidden Gem.

If you continue straight up P2, be prepared for a very organic experience.

Special Thanks to Andy Weinmann for encouraging a better route description, a warning on the grade, and for calling out the route as not-beginner-safe. (See discussion below.)

Location

Begin below the large gulley / chimney that splits the formation in the WEST and EAST buttresses.

Protection

Double ropes recommended to guard against rope drag in the gulley. Pro on both sides of the gulley and chimney. Bring some long slings for trees.

Photos

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