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Routes in Romeo's Ladder

Delivery Room T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Demon, The T,TR 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Descent T,TR 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
Entropy T,TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Ergometer T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Lunging Ledges TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lungng Ledges Direct T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Original Juliet's Balcony T,TR 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a
Oyster T,TR 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Romeo's Ladder T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Romeo's Left T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Romeo's Nose T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Romeo's Retreat T,TR 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Romeo's Right T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, TR, 35 ft
FA: Don Hubbard
Page Views: 4,424 total, 50/month
Shared By: Peter Jackson on Aug 10, 2010 with updates
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Shawn Heath, Jake Jones

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Description

Center jam cracks up through the upstream-facing face. The hand jams are amazing, though there are a few face holds to help you out.

First Ascent was Don Hubbard as mentioned.
Additional Information: The Year Don Hubbard first climbed Romeo's Ladder was 1940.
Source: A Climber' Guide to Great Falls Park
Nelson, B.A. and Grossman, S.I.
Geneva Spur Limited, Virgina 1975.

Location

Just shy of 500 Feet downstream of Juliet's Balcony. There's a large, upstream-facing corner with fist-width cracks throughout. The classic Romeo's Ladder route runs directly up the center of the crack system.

Protection

Toprope is best. Can be led with fist-sized pro, but leading at Great Falls is not recommended. Pro pulls out of the rock.
Brian Malone
Olney, Maryland
 
Brian Malone   Olney, Maryland
 
@Peter Yes, it was my very first climb. It is where our class first began. That class was taught by Barry Nelson and Stan Grossman of Geneva Spur Ltd. (whom I see you've noted in the description) Jun 20, 2016
Peter Jackson
Rumney, NH
 
Peter Jackson   Rumney, NH
 
@brian Romeo's Ladder was your first climb in 1978? That's awesome! It must have been much harder (but doable) in the footgear of the time. My first time up this route I was wearing Doc Martin boots.

It's definitely a popular route, and with good reason. Jun 2, 2015
Brian Malone
Olney, Maryland
 
Brian Malone   Olney, Maryland
 
This climb is perputually rigged on the weekends. Get there early if you want to climb it.. Jun 1, 2015
Peter Jackson
Rumney, NH
 
Peter Jackson   Rumney, NH
 
Thanks Michael. I updated the text to reflect the longer walk. Feb 3, 2014
Romeo's Ladder is 450 feet downstream from Juliet's Balcony. Feb 1, 2014