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Grin and Bear It

V6+, Boulder, 12 ft (4 m),  Avg: 2.3 from 9 votes
FA: unknown
California > Central Coast > Santa Barbara > Santa Barbara… > Brickyard > Owl Farm

Description

The Banks' guide gives this V6. I still haven't quite sent, but I have all but one move dialed, and I think it is hard as nails for V6. I'm reluctant to up the grade before sending, but just fair warning: this is no gimme.
The crux seems to be grabbing a small, knobby 2-3 finger crimp and then the move afterward to a nice edge.
To me there looks to be evidence of foothold breakage, but you never know. Maybe the old SB crew were just total badasses and campused off of two finger crimps. I'd believe it.

Location

Sit start on the "smile crimp" just right of the tree and head up right to join South Street.

Protection

One pad is sufficient. Though if you're just working the hard bits, you're a foot off the ground and you don't even need one.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

First ascentionist Scott Sanchez.
[Hide Photo] First ascentionist Scott Sanchez.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
[Hide Comment] I agree. This problem stymies most climbers right off the deck. Especially hard on a hot summer day, even though it's in the shade. Aug 10, 2010
[Hide Comment] One of the crimps broke a few years ago making this quite a bit more difficult. Sep 2, 2010
Scott Sanchez
San Juan Capistrano, CA 92675
[Hide Comment] I sent this so long ago, I would not know what hold were or were not there. All of that said Bob, would know best he was there for the FA. I do remember the holds were small and the crimps hurt. That whole area has super fun bouldering. thanks Bob for the tour! Jan 13, 2016
Becca Vincent
Seattle, WA
[Hide Comment] I agree with the V6 rating, but I also didn't think it was so bad - takes some crimp strength and fancy footwork, but nothing burly or dynamic and you can easily stay above one pad the whole time. May 28, 2020