Mountain Project Logo

Routes in South Summit Wall

Be Here Now T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Center Thumb T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Da Black and Gold T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Expanding Man T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Free Mexican Air Force T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Gardner's Delight , The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gold Wall T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Great Escape, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Heart of Gold T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Inner Vision T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Left Thumb T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
P-38 T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Right Thumb T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Taivallista T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad, Alpine, 550 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: John Slezak and Cindy Ingraham, 1994 Possible FFA: Jonathan Knight and Noah Bigwood, 2006
Page Views: 1,340 total, 15/month
Shared By: jonathan knight on Aug 10, 2010
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


6 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Another great route that could use some traffic. It's bit heady due to the machine bolts protecting the crux first pitch. I have no idea how bomber they are. We traversed right to start the second pitch to gain a crack system. I think the original route may have stayed on the arete for this pitch, but it looks like the dirtier and more difficult option. Just another excuse to do it again, I guess. The first pitch is pretty clean as are the second and third with the exception of some veg in the cracks. Typically, the top of last pitch is a little rotten, but not very scary.

Location

Exceptional position on the NW arete of the S. Summit wall with a super nice ledge on top of the second pitch. All four pitches were well over 100'.

Protection

Mixed gear and 6 machine bolts on the first pitch. Bring some extra wires to sling these little terrors along with a standard rack. 3 bolt (5/16ths) anchors a top the first and second pitches. 2 bolt anchor for the third with a couple of fixed bashies along the way.

Photos

JeffL
Salt Lake City
JeffL   Salt Lake City
We found plenty of other pro than just the machine bolts. They actually looked in better condition than most of the rusted protection bolts in the cirque. I was kept away from this climb for a while because I was unsure what the pro was like. I found it to be safer than many other routes on the cirque. Get on it! Jul 29, 2016
Greg Gavin
SLC, UT
 
Greg Gavin   SLC, UT
 
Excellent route! The machine bolts appear to be roughly 3/8's studs so if they're deep they should be good, but the number of threads that are in the rock is the unknown. Could be a bunch or they could be in 2 threads! Bring an extra set of peenuts. Overall this climb appears to ascend the largest continuous wall in the cirque. Pretty cool stuff. Jul 13, 2016
Rob Duncan
Salt Lake City
  5.11b PG13
Rob Duncan   Salt Lake City
  5.11b PG13
We also moved out right after about three 'bolts' and traversed back left into the anchor for P1. traversing R definitely looked easier than staying on the grittier rock on the arete proper. The machine bolts looked ok, and there's gear to be had between them to make it a manageable affair.

Really glad we got on it. the placements are cleaner now! 11b,10,10,8. Aug 15, 2011
YAAARR! Thanks for the post, Jonathan! Aug 11, 2010