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American Dream

5.12b, Sport, 85 ft,  Avg: 3.6 from 19 votes
FA: Bill Boyle
Utah > Maple Canyon > Middle Fork > Matrix


This route is phenomenal, a must do for sure! Climb gently overhanging rock for about 45' and try and conserve your energy. The crux comes a little past halfway where the angle kicks back a few more degrees and the holds get smaller. If your super pumped after the crux then watch out or the next few moves might get you.


This route is not in Jason's guide but it is two routes left of "Sound of Klaxon". At the time of this writing "12a" is written in chalk at the start of the route.


10 or so bolts to a two bolt anchor.

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Jon in the good light on an amazing climb.
[Hide Photo] Jon in the good light on an amazing climb.

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Farmington, utah
[Hide Comment] Knezeks guidebook is .12b. Congrats! You'll need 12 draws. Aug 27, 2012
Kyle Skunta
[Hide Comment] What a fun climb. Pumpy cobble pulling to the crux that rewards you for not high clipping. If you don't onsight/flash, dial in that upper beta to insure the send! If you enjoyed this try the extension of the 10c directly to the right of it...

No sun in the later months makes for a chilly wall. Early or late in the summer. Nov 13, 2016