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Routes in Section 13

Arrow Head Left T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Arrowhead Direct TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Arrowhead Left T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Brenda's Last Fling TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Digit Damage T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Equinox T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
In Limbo TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
In The Valley T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Junk Culture TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lower Slab TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Macho Pitchu TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Minas Tirith TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Path of Fierce Black Wolves, The TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Reading Braille TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rubble Trouble T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rubble Trouble Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Seam's Hard TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
We Don't Need No Steenkin Ledges TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, TR, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 198 total, 2/month
Shared By: Sam Daley on Aug 9, 2010
Admins: Kris Gorny, Chris treggE

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Description

Climb the striking detached pillar. This feature creates two distinct lines. On climbers right the pillar forms an off width crack. Or, Traverse the base of the pillar. On climbers left the pillar forms a dihedral and hand crack. According to Farris these variations are 5.8 and 5.6 respectively. After surmounting the sharp pillar trend left on great rock to a thin crack. Rubble Trouble Direct (5.9) diverges into the finger crack to the right.

Location

Locate the prow to the climbers left of the slab. This climb is located off of the climbers left side of this prow. The start of this climb is the inspiring detached pillar bellow.

Protection

Medium nuts, large hexes, and tri-cams. The unique surface of the rock makes placing cams difficult but lends itself to the placement of tri-cams. If you lead the off width bring a couple of pieces that are larger than 5 inches.

Photos

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Sam Daley
Minneapolis, Minnesota
 
Sam Daley   Minneapolis, Minnesota
 
Just for fun we did this in two pitches. A full 70 meter rappel takes you to the base of an easy fifth class scramble. The scramble leads to a small ledge at the base of the pillar. Aug 9, 2010